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Medium
Feb 12, 2008 22:24:26 GMT
Post by Brassleaves on Feb 12, 2008 22:24:26 GMT
All guides I read seem to suggest growing plants in a peat/sand/perlite mixture. I have been growing mine in live long fiber sphagnum for years now and they seem to love it. Anybody else use this medium and have such success with it?
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Medium
Feb 12, 2008 23:11:27 GMT
Post by ICPS-bob on Feb 12, 2008 23:11:27 GMT
Under your conditions that seems to be an excellent choice. For my conditions, I have been using 100% sphagnum peat for decades with good results. I think whatever mix works under each growing situation is what should be used. Experimentation is the best teacher.
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Medium
Feb 13, 2008 2:05:39 GMT
Post by Michael Catalani on Feb 13, 2008 2:05:39 GMT
The one problem you will have with LFS and Sarracenia is when you want to divide the plants. Sarracenia root systems can be an elaborate array of filiments which seriously entangle in the moss. It can be difficult to make a division and separate the plants without doing some form of root damage when they have been actively growing for some time in lfs.
Otherwise, lfs makes a very good medium for Sarracenia, with the possible expections of S. alabamensis and some forms of S. alata, in which lfs may keep the crown of the plant a bit too wet.
Like Bob, I use sphagnum peat moss with no other additives. Peat moss can have its own disadvantages. For one, since it is brownish black in color, it can cause the top portion of the soil to superheat in full sun during the summer. It can also cause Sarracenia to break dormancy a bit too early in spring.
Like Bob said, experimenting is key. Your area may see one type of medium work better than another.
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Medium
Feb 13, 2008 2:50:52 GMT
Post by Brassleaves on Feb 13, 2008 2:50:52 GMT
Sarracenia root systems can be an elaborate array of filiments which seriously entangle in the moss. It can be difficult to make a division and separate the plants without doing some form of root damage when they have been actively growing for some time in lfs. I have encountered this. When I divide my plants they are always dormant so root damage is less stressful. One way I get past the tangles is to (and this may sound silly) grab the rhizome and shake it vigorously. After that a couple of soft comb through with my fingers gets enough of the moss off for me to see what I am doing. Thank you for you input. All I wanted to see is if people have their own methods besides the tried and true. Most of the time when I found wild Sarras they would always be in live long fiber sphagnum, which I why I choose it for my medium. The only exception being S. rubra which seemed to tolerate some peaty soils(though the plants in the live moss where doing substantially better) and S. flava which I would find growing in straight muddy muck directly in the water of a pond.
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Medium
Feb 13, 2008 4:41:17 GMT
Post by Fred P on Feb 13, 2008 4:41:17 GMT
I also think live sphagnum is an excellent choice for Sarrs but I stopped using it for the same reason (it makes dividing and transplanting tough). I would usually just dip the whole plant in a large bucket of water and shake it a bit to get all of the old sphagnum off. Now, I still do the same thing with the bucket except I use sphagnum peat, sand and perlite. I do, however, still use live sphagnum (finely chopped) for starting seeds. You can't beat it!
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Medium
Feb 14, 2008 4:22:28 GMT
Post by Brassleaves on Feb 14, 2008 4:22:28 GMT
Peat moss can have its own disadvantages. For one, since it is brownish black in color, it can cause the top portion of the soil to superheat in full sun during the summer. It can also cause Sarracenia to break dormancy a bit too early in spring. Have you ever tried putting a layer of perlite or white gravel over the top?
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Medium
Feb 14, 2008 21:00:34 GMT
Post by RL7836 on Feb 14, 2008 21:00:34 GMT
Peat moss can have its own disadvantages. For one, since it is brownish black in color, it can cause the top portion of the soil to superheat in full sun during the summer. It can also cause Sarracenia to break dormancy a bit too early in spring. Have you ever tried putting a layer of perlite or white gravel over the top? Perlite on top flies everywhere during strong rain storms ...
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Medium
Feb 14, 2008 21:10:49 GMT
Post by Brassleaves on Feb 14, 2008 21:10:49 GMT
Good to know about the perlite. I'm putting two of my flavas in all peat this year to try it out. I'll put one with gravel on top. I'll let ya'll know how it went about a month after they go dormant.
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Medium
Feb 14, 2008 22:17:12 GMT
Post by Not a Number on Feb 14, 2008 22:17:12 GMT
If you use 1/4-1/2 mulch of sand it will prevent fungus gnat infestation as well as many mosses growing on top. Gravel may be coarse enough that the adult gnats can still get to the peat moss.
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Medium
Feb 15, 2008 1:58:12 GMT
Post by Michael Catalani on Feb 15, 2008 1:58:12 GMT
Have you ever tried putting a layer of perlite or white gravel over the top? Perlite on top flies everywhere during strong rain storms ... lol, yes it does. Any remaining perlite in the pot becomes brown soon thereafter. I have to raise the water level, provide very good airflow, and sometimes shade the soil. I was hopeful the perlite would work, but since the plants are exposed to the elements, I pretty much ended up with brown perlite everywhere.
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Medium
Feb 15, 2008 18:37:44 GMT
Post by Alexis on Feb 15, 2008 18:37:44 GMT
Yep, perlite isn't recommended outside because it floats to the top!
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Clint
Full Member
Posts: 808
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Medium
Feb 17, 2008 15:50:05 GMT
Post by Clint on Feb 17, 2008 15:50:05 GMT
A great alternative to perlite, I've found, is Profile by Schultz. It's an aquatic plant media and it's little baked clay pebbles. It's heavier that perlite, but doesn't float. It's about 6 dollars for a 10 pound bag.
Wash it very well before you use it. It's incredibly dusty!
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Medium
Feb 19, 2008 0:39:18 GMT
Post by pitcherfreak on Feb 19, 2008 0:39:18 GMT
Might be worth trying finer sized pumice as a topping to> It's a bit heavier. I love LFS and grow all my plants in it. You're right about the dividing though
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