Heliamphora from Wistuba

[av8tor1]

Early on I had some issues but they were more learning curve than anything else.

What I do is when they arrive I soak them overnight in Trichoderma atroviride brew, then plant and bag for a week or so and slowly acclimate to my conditions. I've also found that gentle root and pitcher feeding of the young plants is very beneficial to their success

My most robust example is this one:
2008

Now it is about a foot tall and has already flowered and been divided once. It is the plant furthest to the right with the large nectar spoon. (Image was taken post dividing BTW)

It is the mother plant of the divsion that I donated to the most recent MASC auction. The nectar spoon is large enough for me to stick the tip of my thumb in. Not bad at all for 2 yrs IMHO

My advice is get the largest plant you can as they are definitely more forgiving. Also, for us in the States, fall shipments are also better then spring IMHO

Hope this helps,
Av

[bigbella]

Jul 5, 2010 8:04:33 GMT kby said:

On the other hand, I've had a clump of H. ionassi for about 7 years now, and, whereas it's quite large with multiple crowns (just moved it also to a 9" which it fills the surface of), good color, etc., it has never produced an adult pitcher nor shown any inclination to do so. I've always assumed the constant multiplication of crowns is a TC effect, but I sure don't know how long it lasts. I can't recall if I've successfully seen a plant not sold as having adult pitchers (or which clearly had them when it arrived) make the transition successfully in many years (the champion at the moment being the ionassi above). Smaller ones sold as such (clearly have had adult pitchers but don't produce them immediately on arrival) usually eventually grow adult pitchers, again, as long as there's no "disaster" that happens. These are all in the same tank under the same lights.

The one I have never been able to keep is H. hispida. Others I've at least see recover and begin growing.

One issue I have is that, if one is looking for the new stuff, you need to order early, but that means the shipment comes in June, just as things get hot here. I usually have better fortune establishing them over the winter when things
are cooler. I've considered asking for the shipment to be held until then, but so far have not done that. This year's shipment seems to for the most part be recovering and doing OK; it's not been really hot yet.

Yeah, Dave's experience is a real mystery, especially since he does exactly what I do upon receipt of the plants; and I know of many growers far less skilled than he who have had lasting success with Wistuba's plants. Perhaps, it's an issue with compost or temperature in some way? I lean toward live sphagnum and pumice, while other growers lean towards peat or cypress bark-based mixes; and I always provide them with cool nights -- or at least a good Tb drop.

Your experience with Heliamphora which refuse to produce adult leaves -- often for years -- is not all that unusual; and I've occasionally have had the very same phenomena occur with my seed-grown plants and don't believe it to be any issue with tissue culture. Wistuba once mentioned that trimming back a couple of juvenile leaves can stimulate or promote the production of the adults; though, I am not sure whether that occurred when I attempted it, or whether the plants had already reached maturity . . .

[mmlr38]

I've placed two orders for Heliamphora with Andreas now and I've had pretty good luck with them. However, in my most recent fairly large order, one of the plants came and it was already 90% dead when it arrived. Unfortunately, it was the most expensive plant in the entire shipment (the H. sarracenioides). I'm a bit sick over it and it's made it so that I'm hesitant to order again. Another one of the plants (H. folliculata) also died back almost completely, but I now see a new pitcher coming out, so hopefully it recovers.

I guess I've ordered somewhere around 10 Heliamphora from Andreas now and I've had all but one of them survive. 90% survival rate isn't too bad I don't suppose.

[Dave Evans]

Yeah, and it makes sense too, since both of those species are ultra-highlanders and are probably even more sensitive to heat in general... If you get in touch with Andreas right away, he'll probably sent a replacement.

[jeff]

when they come from in vitro ,the question is what substrate they remain in a greenhouse for the wait month.

I think ,but may be I'm wrong , the substrate of departure is especially important for the system root .

I noticed, but maybe you also, in a hydroponic mixing (perlite, sphagnum (dead or alive)) the root system is very developed, very brittle and yellowish ,in an environment rather boggy bit darker , little developed and more rustic , their needs should not be the same

if there is a passage from one to another, especially in the sense hydroponics-peat, the plant has problems in my opinion.

I am very interested by this trichoderma method , have you more explication please ?

jeff

[av8tor1]

Jeff,

It is a beneficial fungi that forms a symbiotic relationship with the plant. It has been shown to increase nutrient uptake and overall plant health. It also parasitizes and antagonizes other phytopathogens. Many of these benefits have also been shown to be systemic.

Here are a couple good refs on the subject:
crystalscarnivores.com/research/trich_interactions.pdf
crystalscarnivores.com/research/trichoderma_research.pdf

Abstracts:

Plant tissue colonization by Trichoderma atroviride plays a critical role in the reduction of diseases caused by
phytopathogenic fungi, but this process has not been thoroughly studied in situ. We monitored in situ
interactions between gfp-tagged biocontrol strains of T. atroviride and soilborne plant pathogens that were
grown in cocultures and on cucumber seeds by confocal scanning laser microscopy and fluorescence stereomicroscopy.
Spores of T. atroviride adhered to Pythium ultimum mycelia in coculture experiments. In mycoparasitic
interactions of T. atroviride with P. ultimum or Rhizoctonia solani, the mycoparasitic hyphae grew alongside
the pathogen mycelia, and this was followed by coiling and formation of specialized structures similar to hooks,
appressoria, and papillae. The morphological changes observed depended on the pathogen tested. Branching
of T. atroviride mycelium appeared to be an active response to the presence of the pathogenic host. Mycoparasitism
of P. ultimum by T. atroviride occurred on cucumber seed surfaces while the seeds were germinating. The
interaction of these fungi on the cucumber seeds was similar to the interaction observed in coculture experiments.
Green fluorescent protein expression under the control of host-inducible promoters was also studied.
The induction of specific Trichoderma genes was monitored visually in cocultures, on plant surfaces, and in soil
in the presence of colloidal chitin or Rhizoctonia by confocal microscopy and fluorescence stereomicroscopy.
These tools allowed initiation of the mycoparasitic gene expression cascade to be monitored in vivo.

Trichoderma spp. are free-living fungi that are common in soil and root ecosystems. Recent
discoveries show that they are opportunistic, avirulent plant symbionts, as well as being
parasites of other fungi. At least some strains establish robust and long-lasting colonizations of
root surfaces and penetrate into the epidermis and a few cells below this level. They produce or
release a variety of compounds that induce localized or systemic resistance responses, and this
explains their lack of pathogenicity to plants. These root–microorganism associations cause
substantial changes to the plant proteome and metabolism. Plants are protected from
numerous classes of plant pathogen by responses that are similar to systemic acquired
resistance and rhizobacteria-induced systemic resistance. Root colonization by Trichoderma spp.
also frequently enhances root growth and development, crop productivity, resistance to abiotic
stresses and the uptake and use of nutrients.

HTH's
Av

[unstuckintime]

So, then, Av8tor1, do you grow active cultures yourself or do you buy some each time you do a bath as you described? If you keep cultures, please share your methods!

[av8tor1]

No, I just buy it.... the pricing is very reasonable and it's much simpler to keep dormant spores on hand.
The shelf life is 7 yrs if kept cool and dry (fridge)

[jeff]

quite some time I wanted to try this method.

for Heliamphora it seems effective

many thanks

jeff

[unstuckintime]

How about nepenthes? (I should probably just start another thread, eh?)

[SundeWCitY]

Im very interested but how does one prepare the trichoderma, and where can it be purchased? I am disappointed, I had an opportunity to go to Sancti spiritus Cuba, with my university to study trichoderma and do trials on horticultural crops for 3 months, I will certainly go next year though! anyways any help would be great i would love to try it with my cp;s !

[Crissytal]

Hi Viktorianeps,

I don't post too much on this forum though your questions were brought to my attention. Trichoderma is very easy to prepare. You mix one teaspoon to one gallon of water if you are using the flowable (mixable) type. I don't recommend trying to store the Trich once it's mixed with water. If you're using the granular type of Trich, you can sprinkle it in your media when repotting plants or just sprinkle on the surface of the media of pots that have already been planted.

Here's a link to an instruction sheet that I've written up on the type of Trich that I use personally and sell (Plant Helper brand):
crystalscarnivores.com/trichinstructions.html

I'm not sure the extent of the rules regarding the recommendations on where to buy products. I will PM you the information on where you can purchase .

I hope this helps!
Crystal

[Not a Number]

FWIW the instructions that come with the AmPac Plant Helper product recommends refrigerating the unused liquid mix.