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Post by picrophyll on Apr 27, 2010 11:07:13 GMT
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Post by Brian Barnes on Apr 27, 2010 11:59:56 GMT
Hey Phil,
Excellent and informative photos!
I think I see a form of D. spatulata in a few of the photos. Were there any other CP species in the area?
Happy Growing,
Brian.
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Post by Not a Number on Apr 27, 2010 14:26:40 GMT
What is that soil? Crushed coral? It looks like perlite.
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Post by brokken on Apr 27, 2010 22:31:16 GMT
Probably sandstone. I can't imagine cephs growing in crushed coral.
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Post by utricseb on Apr 28, 2010 18:52:01 GMT
Great pictures Phill, is that quartz sand? Is the sand layer thick and what kind of soil is below it?
Regards,
Sebastian
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Post by unstuckintime on Apr 29, 2010 1:56:27 GMT
one must wonder- Is it the media which has caused that interesting coloration, or some minor gene expression which has also allowed for it to grow in the media, so ubiquitous just in this population due to isolation?
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Post by picrophyll on May 4, 2010 10:28:41 GMT
Sorry for the delay in answering, have been having trouble logging in.
Brian, D. spathulata doesn't grow here. D pulchella and D. hamiltonii are the only Drosera growing with the Ceph's.
The soil is about 75% course white silica sand, the remainder is decomposed humus that has washed from the surface in these pics. I have found Ceph's growing in a very sandy soils before, but never this coarse type. When Cephs grow in full sun on the white surface they tend to colour in brown shades. When growing on normal dark peaty soils, they turn red to dark purple. The reason for this posting is to show that special soils are not necessary for growing cephs. They can be kept fairly dry with only a small amount of moisture passing through the soil, never sitting in stagnant water. Cheers Phill
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Post by jgriffin on May 8, 2010 1:02:59 GMT
Great stuff, Phill. Nice to see old frieeds poke thier heads out of the soil once in a while... ;D Are you suggesting growing them top watering like a Nepenthes or just enough in a tray/saucer to get absorbed before watering again in a few? When I had them, I tray watered about 1-2 cm deep maybe once/week . Even in pure peat(which is what Lowrie suggested in a old CPN) grew over 2" pitchers(approaching 3") in those conditions. Definitely one of my favorite cp. I'll have to get some going again at some point.
Cheers,
Joe
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cindy
Full Member
Posts: 226
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Post by cindy on May 14, 2010 7:14:54 GMT
Hi Phill,
Was the condition similar to "someone's backyard" where the D. paleacea grows?
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taz6122
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Yesterday is History.Tomorrow is a Mystery and Today is a Gift.Thats why we call it the Present.
Posts: 289
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Post by taz6122 on May 17, 2010 5:43:25 GMT
I'm thinking they are so dark because the sun is reflected by the white sand. Darker soils will absorb light instead of reflecting it.
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Post by mmlr38 on May 19, 2010 0:18:52 GMT
Very informative. Thanks Phil!
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Post by patrickn on Jun 16, 2010 3:15:11 GMT
Thanks for great sharing. Interesting information.
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Post by picrophyll on Jun 29, 2010 16:20:24 GMT
Cindy, no the soil you are referring to was the D. paleacea site where the silica sand was like pure salt. This silica is so much coarser and extended down beyond 25cm (10"). The dark colour is due to direct sunlight. Strangely the Cephs that grow in the open on the peat soils are red/maroon.
Joe, I have always recommended not standing Cephs in water as this causes salts to build up as the water evaporates. My Cephs are watered with the sprays and the water flows through easily. In the Ceph swamps they never sit in stagnant water, if anything they grow on the dryer sides.
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Richard Davion
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Having-Problems Taking-OUT Another [4]-Years-of-MEMBERSHIP Why-Does-It Have-To-Be Soo-'Hard' Fellahs
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Post by Richard Davion on Sept 8, 2010 15:22:22 GMT
What-"I" 'Learnt' from The FIELD-River SWADE-Bog: s282.photobucket.com/albums/kk241/RichardBBWDavion/The-FIELD-River%20SWADE-Bog/?start=40was-that These Bright-White Quarzite-Sands Have gone-through some-form of 'Bleaching'-event in their-Past in-Order to-be in-such R-State. The-pH Necessary to-Elute [Wash, Flush &-or Release] The-Iron from The-Quartzite (Necessarily 'Porous' so-to-Speak) Is-R Pathway to Very-Stable Alternative-Forms of These Elements that 'Stick' to-HEMICELLULOSE nonetheless as-Do other so-Called 'Salt'-Fragments (IE Cations-&-Anions) ... so-One Can End-Up with Water Pack-FULL of Many Hundreds-of-Grams of Iron that-IS (Obliviously) Perfectly-'Clear', so-to-Speak!!! >(*~*)< These Alternative-Forms of Iron and Other Elements (Manganese Etc) Appear to-Have Inducement-Roles in CP-Root-Formation as-Well-as Colouration ... though "I"-'Suspect' that R-Similarly Reduced & 'Safe'-form of Calcium will-be The-Answer We've ALL-Been 'Waiting'-for, so-to-Speak!!! >(*U^)< This-'Suggests' that The so-called: "Calcifuge-Barrier" is-Indeed 'Breakable' &-Highly-likely Necessarily-so for The True-('Natural')-Growth of CPs, Comparable to-that-which occurs in-the-Wild ... but-of-Course Horticulture will-be-Able to-Do-it so-Much-'Better', so-to-Speak!!! >(*U^)<
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Richard Davion
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Having-Problems Taking-OUT Another [4]-Years-of-MEMBERSHIP Why-Does-It Have-To-Be Soo-'Hard' Fellahs
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Post by Richard Davion on Sept 8, 2010 15:40:26 GMT
Another-Thing I've Learnt Recently While-Exploring Perlite is-that The so-Called 50/50 Peat-&-Sand Ratio is-Patiently in-Error.
Basically Humus-Material Just Fills The-Intersteticular Spaces Between The Sand-Grains of Fine-Sand Which Usually Lies Somewhere Between 25 and 33-&-1/3 Percent [Compare-This with The Roberts-&-Oostings report on Dionaea] for-Most Fine Quartzite-Sands ... so-Basically to-Cut-R-Long-& Somewhat 'Intriguing'-Story, "Short" One-IS far-Better-off Mixing: 5-Parts, Fine-Acid-Washed Quartzite-Sand with 2-Parts-Peat than The-Usually 50/50-Approach.
Of-Course Sand-IS very 'Thermally' Cool ... and such-R Ratio Keeps The-Roots Cold-to-The-Touch as-Well-as Allowing some-Sunlight to-Partially-Penetrate Down into The-Root-Zone - Which Considering How-Much 'Sun' CPs Require Can-Only-be Beneficial I-Would 'Suspect'.
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