dried or live sphagnum moss for stratification?

[ahortman]

I have several seeds, S. alata-blk/red, S. leucophylla, typical VFT, D. intermedia, D. indica and D. filliformis red that I got around Xmas. I need to put them into cold strat. I have dried sphag and live sphag (from my grandma's backyard in S.C.!) and was wondering which is best to use. I was thinking the dried since there may be less chance of fungus or mold or little guys hanging out in the live moss. Any thoughts/suggestions, etc? Also, I'm having problems keeping plants labeled. The labels get wet and the writing comes off. Yes, I'm using a permanent marker-fine point sharpies. Any ideas here? And for keeping labels on in the fridge? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have gemmae started, but this is my first go at seeds. Thanks.
A

[Not a Number]

Either works well. Both live Sphagnum moss and dried LFS have some anti-fungal properties. Finely milled LFS is sold as a product called NoDampOff by Mosser Lee in the US.

Moisten the LFS or Sphagnum and drain it well so you need to press down on it to get water out. Take a few pinches of the moss and mix your seeds into it, bag it up and put it into the fridge. After stratification just spread the moss seeds and all into your germination containers.

The problem with using live Sphagnum is that the moss will usually overgrow your seedlings so you have to keep trimming it back.

You can seperate the Sarracenia seeds if you have the patience to do so. The Drsosera seeds will be so small that it will be next to impossible to seperate.

Sharpies rub off of plastic bags eaisly. It also fades rapidly in sunlight or under UV light. Try using freezer masking tape or frosted cellophane "Scotch" tape for labels. Use a soft lead pencil. Ball point pen will last longer than a "Sharpie" but will also fade in sunlight.

[ahortman]

Thanks for the info! I was also wondering if a one month strat period is long enough for the seeds I have. Of course, I want the plants ASAP, but I would rather start right and have healthy babies. And I know I need patience with CP seeds. Now's the time to work on that.

I sowed some D. madagascarienis and D.aliciae with the D.nitidula ssp. allantostigma gemmae in a plastic tupperware container. Does anyone know the germination time for these seeds? Half the gemmae are turning into baby sundews already. Thanks.
A

[Not a Number]

See the study linked in this thread on optimial stratification lengths for various Sarracenia species:

icps.proboards105.com/index.cgi?board=sarracenia&action=display&thread=1195132601&page=1#1195596604

I forgot to mention that you should chop up the Sphagnum or LFS into 0.25 inch bits or so. You can put the LFS into a food processor if you want milled stuff. Wearing a mask and gloves may be appropriate when dealing with dried LFS to prevent Sporotrichosis infections.

www.sarracenia.com/faq/faq3880.html

[ahortman]

Thanks again for your help. Those links are exactly what I needed! My neighbor just found another aquarium for me and I finally got the proper lighting, so I'm all set! Had to clean out my entire plant room today because my husband refuses to let me take over another room for plants. Oh, well. Needed to be done anyway. And I actually got rid of some houseplants to make room for the new CPs and seedlings!
A

[elgecko]

Just saw that I had an email from you and you mentioned this thread so I will answer here.

I would not use live Sphagnum moss because of it over growing the little.

Seeds can vary in the germination rates. Some sundews will germinate in around 4 weeks, others much longer. I have germinated D. madagascarienis and can take several months.

As for labeling, I grow many of my plants in their own pots so I mark the pots with a Brother P-Touch labeler. Get one that uses the TZ tapes and not the M series tapes. The M tapes will fade in the sunlight and weather in less than a year. The TZ tape I’ve had on pots for over 5 years and have not faded at all.