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Post by magnum on Mar 27, 2007 21:24:57 GMT
I have a large U longifolia plant but ever since i got it around 6 months ago, and all the new leaves that have come up have turned immeadiatly brown and dried up. I keep it well watered using the tray system, but the problem still persists. Does anyone know some spacific cultivation techniques that have worked for this specie?
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Post by vicbrown on Mar 28, 2007 8:18:10 GMT
It is hard to tell what you are doing wrong without knowing anything about your own conditions. I grow several forms of U, longifolia in my conservatory: natural light - bright shade, some late afternoon sun, min. temp. 8 oC in winter, max. temp. 35 oC in summer and fairly high humidity. I use a fairly open mix for most large, tropical bladderworts, its somewhat similar to a Nepenthes mix; roughly equal parts Live sphagnum, sphagnum peat, perlite and fine orchid bark. I don't keep the plants waterlogged, rather they are kept just damp, a little wetter in summer. Vic
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Post by stevestewart on Mar 28, 2007 17:39:21 GMT
Hello all, I hate to post ugly photographs, but I have what I believe to be a Utricularia longifolia that is growing from seed, now in a quart jar. The plant produces palmate leaves on about every third leaf, all other leaves look like normal U. longifolia. Has anyone ever seen this type of growth on U. longifolia? The plant produces traps that are the right size for U. longifolia. The plant is a weak grower compared to the parent plant. These are the flowers of the parent plant I got seed from. Has anyone else grown this species from seed? Steven Stewart
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mabudon
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Post by mabudon on Mar 29, 2007 13:43:23 GMT
stevestewart- the "foliage" part looks nothing like the ones I've seen, but the flowers of the parent look about right. Magnum- I have had one in my windowsill for about 3 years now (I think that's right, a good while anyways) I live in the Niagara area, in Southwestern Ontario, Canada (to give you an idea of what kind of natural light cycles it gets) Ever year around october the "leaves" go from being really long and green to VERY "ratty" looking,they brown up and die off.. I am starting to think that it has something to do with dormancy- much like some Drosera, it doesn't actually "hibernate" but does show changes in growth- I would think that you should see a real upswing in growth in the next months depending on your conditions. EDIT I see from your introduction that you're basically in the same neck o' the woods as me, so a windowsill should be PERFECT for it!! Just let it grow and be patient and you should have flowers next year OH and it has always flowered at the tail end of this "ratty looking" period. Just my observations, I've asked MANY folks for pointers but it sems many folks have trouble figuring out exactly what makes them flower.
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Post by magnum on Mar 29, 2007 15:36:19 GMT
I'm starting to think that the growth problem may be a heat related issue. The conservatory here has a U. longifolia that always looks great and the day temp in there is usually 80. Also, I believe that California Carnivores grows the plant in their hot house.
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mabudon
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Post by mabudon on Mar 29, 2007 15:39:16 GMT
My windowsills get pretty cold, and the humidity goes WAY down over winter, too- seems the warmer temps and brighter light is what "wakes it up", so I would think you are correct- I just can't do anything about it, and it seems the plant responds by giving me at least me one spike of flowers per season, out of a 3" pot with less-than-ideal media in it
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Post by magnum on Mar 29, 2007 19:08:59 GMT
That's identical conditions to mine, so hopefully it will bloom this year or next.
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mabudon
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Post by mabudon on Mar 29, 2007 19:49:34 GMT
Excellent- and since we're in almost the exact same boat, I can tell you that mine looks to be maybe 2 weeks away from actual blooming, maybe a bit more, so basically mid-march is when the "turnaround" should happen- I forgot the timing of it, and this year I took some cuttings/plugs off for people, so I had figured it was too late already, but sure enough after a few sunny days warmed up the windowsill (south facing, btw) up came the "scape" (in parentheses cos I'm not too sure if it's a true scape in Utricularia)
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Post by kulamauiman on Nov 12, 2008 17:46:16 GMT
Is U. longifolia self pollinating (self cross possible) and will I need to mechanically pollinate because I have it in an aquarium under lights without access to any pollinators.
So far in a comparison between the ones I have outside and the ones under lights and in an aquarium there is no comparison. The ones inside are doing way better. But then the temps are very warm inside and very humid. Temps vary 70's at night and 90's in the day. Outside it drops down to the 50's and perhaps as we get to winter to the low 40's.......
Mahalo,
Mach Fukada
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Post by stevestewart on Nov 14, 2008 12:14:56 GMT
Is U. longifolia self pollinating (self cross possible) and will I need to mechanically pollinate because I have it in an aquarium under lights without access to any pollinators. Mahalo, Mach Fukada I have not had any Utricularia longifolia set seed without my pollinating them. This species has such a large flower it is easy to see all the separate parts. I can't say for sure if I started with a single clone or with a clump of separate plants, but I believe they are self compatible. I hope one of the experts of this forum and the ICPS corrects me if I am wrong. I do know I have gotten seed from pots of plants that looked like a singe clone. When you get efficient fertilizing flowers of U. longifolia, it becomes a challenge to pollinate some of the smaller species of the genus. Take care, Steven Stewart
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Post by unstuckintime on Nov 17, 2008 23:53:33 GMT
I have it in an aquarium under lights without access to any pollinators. Mach Fukada, What are the conditions of your aquarium under lights? I, too, have my U. Longifolia under lights in an aquarium, and while it looks perfectly happily, it has yet to bloom for me, and has been there for more than a year. Have you gotten yours to bloom? What triggers the blossom? Cj
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Post by kulamauiman on Nov 19, 2008 20:07:49 GMT
I have it in an aquarium under lights without access to any pollinators. Mach Fukada, What are the conditions of your aquarium under lights? I, too, have my U. Longifolia under lights in an aquarium, and while it looks perfectly happily, it has yet to bloom for me, and has been there for more than a year. Have you gotten yours to bloom? What triggers the blossom? Cj Funny you should ask. I was gonna post this anyway to get some confirmation that this was U. longifolia. IT came in as a hitch hiker in some live sphagnum that was sent with some D. paradoxa. Just started blooming yesterday. This is my petiolaris complex and other warm loving sundew tanks. So daily it gets to 90 + F and down to the high 70's over night. It is lit by two compact fluorescents lights one 65,000K and one 100,000K bulb. It really took off growing when I moved it there. Previous to that it was under a shop light near a window and temps get from 70's F (Day)-60's F (over night). Maybe change in temp got it to flower? Growth has exploded since I moved it to the tank I can see stolons coming out of the bottom on the pot and actually took a few leafy ones to start a new plant for my greenhouse experiment.
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Post by unstuckintime on Nov 20, 2008 19:54:54 GMT
*nods* My tank doesnt get nearly that hot. I'll try putting the pot closer to the lights, see if the intensity and whatever heat increase happens will trigger it.
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Post by Dave Evans on Nov 20, 2008 23:42:31 GMT
Dear Steven,
I think your U. longifolia looks normal for the conditions. Many Utricularia will respond to softer conditions with larger leaves, which really aren't even true leaves but rather modified stems--they can branch and bear traps which are the true leaves.
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Post by brokken on Feb 7, 2009 20:08:59 GMT
My longifolia grows like crazy in my lowland terrarium but has yet to flower. This is a picture of a root section that I removed from the pot it was originally growing in and I simply put in one of the watering trays. You can see that the leaves are longer than some of the nearby nepenthes:
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