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Post by krakatoa on Feb 24, 2011 18:01:25 GMT
Just starting to re pot the brood, and already it's like $*#&!! Way too many plants! But the weather here has been holding up the whole process of trying to re pot (a few days of 70 degrees followed by 50 days and 30 degree nights - I know that doesn't sound too unusual, but usually we're done with this kind to weather here), before buds get over 2-3" ( it's my weird little rule - it seems like less stress on the plant when re potted in Feb.) here, in March, the Sarracenias get into full swing.
It's funny - at first you have a mental list of what and who to re pot and then you're out there and it's like, this one busted out, that one is totally crowded, spray these and weed those - also I've noticed that any of my carnivores that have those piles of worm crap around them get re potted as well, it seems like they turn the soil to MUSH. I honestly have no idea how much my plants have grown until now, when the pitchers can't compete for attention, and it's just you and the rhizomes.
We are supposed to have low snow tonight so the 40+ plants I have re potted have gone into the cold frame for the next few days - they probably could take a direct hit, but since I bare rooted ( is that a woird?)
them, I figured it best to give them a little overhead protection, but temperatures will stay down in the 30's - upper 20s at night.
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Post by rocktroll on Feb 25, 2011 0:49:19 GMT
Could you please describe the re-potting proccess? I just joined and am good with plants. I have thousands of questions.
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Post by krakatoa on Feb 25, 2011 18:11:31 GMT
OK. Let's go! First off, I don't know where you are, so location is key! Every plant will react to whatever climate it's grown in, so for example, I'm in California - if you live in say New York or Wisconsin or even Florida or Louisiana, we can grow the same plants, however cultivation methods will be different, especially in regards to dormancy (which PERSONALLY, in my eyes, to grow carnivores well MUST be given), so my first step would be to contact a local carnivorous plant society, or other members on this or other forums that live nearby (state/county) and see how they do things. Another big rule I go by - treat every plant you come across like it's your last! Don't hack them up to pieces in a trading frenzy, because something desirable has come across your path - let your plants bulk up a bit - it gives them better stamina to go through stressful times be they extreme winter or summer temperatures. If you're not sure about say, using fertilizers...DON'T!! Now, on this and other forums, you will see some AMAZING plants grown by some gifted people that use fertilizer, and all I can say is they have that down to a science..literally - follow their instructions to the letter, should you decide to try it and don't spitball anything or you will lose your plants, and as Adrian Slack (carnivorous plant enthusiast) would say, a dead plant does not allow one a second attempt! Personally, I'm old school, and like the idea of owning plants that actually feed themselves!
Now, the next thing I would tell you to do would be to start looking over websites ( Bob's CP photo finder ) and the web ring here on ICPS and start REALLY looking at the plants - take those pictures that look the best, brand them onto your brain and strive to produce those results.
After talking with local/state growers GROW ONLY WHAT YOU KNOW!! I know this sounds harsh (sorry for the caps) but if you live in an area that has brutal winters, and you don't have any indoor lighting, be it a sunny window or a killer indoor lighting system..don't buy a nepenthes - it more than likely will grow - weakly, not pitcher and all you'll have will be a sub carnivorous vine. For example - I grow mostly Sarracenia and Dionaea, since in California's winter climate, I can look outside and not worry about them freezing and the few highland Nepenthes we have are brought in @ Oct. and hung in southern facing windows until March/April, when they go back out to the unheated greenhouse. I want Cephalotus, Darlingtonia and Nepenthes like you have no idea, but my growing conditions won't allow it - too hot for Darlingtonia, too unstable for Cephalotus and we don't have enough windows to house the Nepenthes for the winter (there are highland and lowland Nepenthes..whole different thread with growers much more experienced than I), so I don't grow them. Nothing is more of a killer to enthusiasm than fighting nature!
As far as re potting goes, I re pot only mid Feb. to early March and try not to extend that frame of time - I let the flower buds on the Sarracenias dictate the pace, since flowering is the commencement of growth, I try not to disturb them once buds are @ 3" high, especially if pitchers are being produced. Again, this is being done in Calif. If you live back east don't even do this now. Anything in a 4" pot is re potted yearly - if it's a 4" Sarracenia that's become too tight, I'll bump it to a 6", and so on. The soil I use is a simple combo of peat moss and sand. NOW, ABOUT PEAT MOSS..Use ONLY organic Sphagnum peat. NOTHING ELSE!! Read the label like your life depends on it, since now there are time release fertilizers and wetting agents that will screw your plants up big time causing everything from distorted growth (stress from the above mentioned chemical enhancers) to eventual death..so read, read, read those labels, and if your STILL unsure, read em again. Sunshine brand Peat moss is what I use, get a pair of latex gloves, and break up the peat until it is fine - no small chunks and wet it throughly with distilled water. I use a combo of peat and sand, but if you have a large grade of perlite (orchid growers use this) that will work too. I buy sand in 50 lb bags at Home Depot that has been screened and washed (playground sand) and then I WASH IT AGAIN, just to be safe, tipping the container to the side, and let the water run out, then I mix the 2 together - I try to get the peat mix where I can see quite a bit of sand throughly mixed in with it - I go through about 18 cu ft of peat moss and 200 lbs of sand when potting goes full swing. I try to place the rhizome top right at or just above soil level - strip off ALL dead pitcher material from last year, and even root prune long root systems, so they are not being crammed back into the pot - when I root prune, it's like a haircut, but not a hard prune back and if necessary, I'll hold the rhizome in place while packing soil around it firming it up as I go, so the plant does not sink back into the soil when all is said and done.
As far as water goes, I've bought a reverse osmosis unit, so I don't have to worry about how many parts per million. They receive at least 5 hours direct sun daily - summer thru winter - and direct sun means just that - dappled sunlight does not count, unless you live in a desert where afternoon sun is just too brutal. The plants will tell you, if you watch them - for example, if you are growing Sarracenia leucophylla and the pitchers are weak and floppy, usually lack of sunlight is the first strike off the list, followed by soil condition and overall health of the plant in question. Pitchers should be strong, upright and colorful (depending on species or hybrid). Flytraps should be strong and robust, even on younger plants - long, spindly growth and underdeveloped traps are usually (but not always) a sign of low light levels.
As far as dormancy goes, with any of the North American carnivores, I PERSONALLY recommend sticking to it, and don't try to "force" them into growing year around under lights, or shortening their natural dormancy period. Some have done this and have had success, personally, I believe this is interrupting the natural cycle of the plant itself. Our backyards and greenhouses are not the natural setting for Dionaea, Sarracenia and the like - the soil we grow them in is not theirs and they don't exist in 4" pots or huge tubs in the wild, so I say met them half way - I would LOVE to have my B-52 Flytraps growing year around, but it also gives me something to look forward to come spring time. If you live in New York or anywhere along the east coast, I've talked to growers who do everything, from renting greenhouse/basement space, to those who have a small collection that cruises through winter on a small window ledge. Those living in tropical climates, cut the plants back, wrap them in sphagnum and put them in the fridge!
So, hope that helps out some, be passionate about doing this and you'll have success - read up on the plants - you can get 'The Savage Garden' by Peter D'Amato or 'Growing Carnivorous Plants' by Barry Rice, but please don't pull all your info off the Internet - some sites are top notch - others....Good Growing!
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Post by ICPS-bob on Feb 25, 2011 20:31:02 GMT
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Post by krakatoa on Feb 25, 2011 21:09:06 GMT
And to tell you the truth, I'm still learning. We've (as in California) just had a BRUTAL late cold storm blow through here - now after a hardcore soaking it's clear as can be like nothing happened, however you can feel the temperature here drop, and it's supposed to be a hard freeze tonight and through the weekend. I've also got a lot of Sarracenias that are putting up flower buds, esp. S. flava, S. purpurea and all forms and hybrids of the two. Normally, I would say they can take this kind of exposure, but since they are soaking wet, there are buds and a few stray pitchers just beginning to peek out, I'm probably going to cover them just to be on the safe side and remove the tarp in the AM daily, so the plants can breathe, greenhouse included - just to keep air circulating. I want to protect those first pitchers, especially where S. flava is concerned, since they tend to be the largest.
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Post by rocktroll on Feb 27, 2011 19:48:15 GMT
Krakatoa my name is Bill I live in New Jersey and currently have 4 plants growing under artifical light (Compact flouresent) in a terrarium which is bottom watered by the tray method. I bought a 2 bulb T8 shop lamp and ordered 6 Vita-Lite grow bulbs. I have the timer set to 12 hours on 12 off but when the bulbs arrive I will slowly modify the photoperiod to one closer to our days in Jersey. I have Peter D'amato's book " The Savage Garden" and am in the process of reading/re-reading and taking notes. So far the plant appear healthy but I overfed my ping a small grass hopper and burnt the leaves. Plus a few of the little buggers deceided to breakfast on it. I took Sundewman's advice and bought Beta Bits and am hand feeding slurry slowly to encourage health. I will read and take notes on the valuable information you posted and want to say Thanks for answering a newbie. Everyone here has taken the time to answer the repetative and sometimes painful questions I pose. I will definatly mind my growing zone and try to stay within Natures parameters so nothing's wasted. Thank you again for your reply I will follow your lead.
Bill George
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Post by krakatoa on Feb 28, 2011 14:58:55 GMT
Bill, sounds to me like you're on the right path! Please don't think your questions are a waste of time, or beneath anyone to answer - that's what we are here for, to help each other out when we can and share our knowledge! Have a great spring (hopefully soon!)
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