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Post by carman on Jan 1, 2010 18:02:03 GMT
Hey to everybody. I have just recently purchased a few p. heterophylla (medusa) and p. macrophylla plants. Now these are the pings that form dormant bulbs. My questions are, do I keep the soil bone dry or do I water the soil a little now and then. I have read articles that say both, but most articles say if the soil is wet at all, the bulbs will rot. And, do I need to do anything to initiate going into and out of dormancy for these plants? I grow all my pings under lights, indoors.
So, I am in hopes that some of you ping growers with experiance in these pings can share with me exactly what to do. thanks for your time and help.
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Post by marcel on Jan 1, 2010 18:35:31 GMT
Try this Gary: www.pinguicula.org/, the specific species section answers all your questions (including probably the ones you haven't thought about yet ;D) Probably the best site on the genus there is.  |
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Post by Radek Kastner on May 17, 2010 18:38:01 GMT
Hey to everybody. I have just recently purchased a few p. heterophylla (medusa) and p. macrophylla plants. Now these are the pings that form dormant bulbs. My questions are, do I keep the soil bone dry or do I water the soil a little now and then. I have read articles that say both, but most articles say if the soil is wet at all, the bulbs will rot. And, do I need to do anything to initiate going into and out of dormancy for these plants? I grow all my pings under lights, indoors. Yes, Best way is to keep soil bone dry and let them on cool places (around 10 °C). With P. heterophylla ( P. medusina is different species!) it is little bit different - the best temperature for winter dormancy is around 5 °C or lower. Then that species doesn´t have problems with start of growing next season....   |
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jeff
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Post by jeff on May 19, 2010 9:53:38 GMT
I thing RADEX that these onion must to past the dormancy always in dry condition , usually if they are wet they rot , no ?
rehydrate the substrate gradually thereafter to a good startup
jeff
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Post by Radek Kastner on May 19, 2010 13:02:52 GMT
I thing RADEX that these onion must to past the dormancy always in dry condition , usually if they are wet they rot , no ? rehydrate the substrate gradually thereafter to a good startup jeff Hi Jeff, as I wrote - bone dry and cool. Low temperatures (at minimum lower than 15 °C but better much lower) and their changing to higher during "spring" help plants significantly to start up... most of mexican pinguicula is sensitive to wet conditions during winter dormancy. Wintering and stress changing are conected by plants with abscis acidic, but it is for me a little bit demanding to translate it into English. I´ve asked for that information directly by RNDr. Miloslav Studnicka, I hope for you known carnivorous plant expert... (see the articles about P. bohemica - which I sent to you) |
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jeff
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Post by jeff on May 20, 2010 6:37:03 GMT
I think should not take the winter out there as our winter in Europe, over there is rather a dry season and plant species are dormant form :rosettes with succulent leaves, onions, leaves arachtinoide ,better protect itself from this heat and live in 'autarcie'.
jeff
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Post by Radek Kastner on May 20, 2010 9:12:38 GMT
I think should not take the winter out there as our winter in Europe, over there is rather a dry season and plant species are dormant form :rosettes with succulent leaves, onions, leaves arachtinoide ,better protect itself from this heat and live in 'autarcie'. jeff It is not about heat only, temperatures out of raining season differ not much from temperatures during this season during wet summer. Day: 20-25 °C (sometimes could reach up to 30 °C, not so often), during night fall temperatures by 10 or 15 °C degrees. There is not so hot as many people think. Much higher temperatures were during day on sites for example P.gypsicola, P. takakii, P. mirandae, P. ehlersiae... - semidesert areas - but during the night temperatures agin fall very very lower... "winter" rosettes seems to me much more protection with lower supplementation of water in whichever form.... You have to imagine, that most of species grow on shaded or semishaded places where are temperatures lower during the day... Abscis acidic is active by whichever stress which has impact on that plants (dry, hot, cold...), you probably know, that mostly it is conected to more changes, for heterophylla it should be dry season (not hotter!) to go into winter bulb, which is retracted deeply in the soil with water reservoir in it... that´s my opinion after some attempts with growing them and after visiting wild sites... |
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jeff
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Post by jeff on May 21, 2010 9:41:36 GMT
I am OK with you , dry is not necessarily hot , but with hot pic neverless , here in europe 27°c it is hot .
abscis acidic ?
for me these succulent leaves - arachnioide leaves - onion is just a compensate for their lack of water, as on other plants that have either leaves (agave, aloe), stems (Stapelia-Euphorbia) or roots (caudex) (Adenium, Fock) succulent. to pass the dry saison quietly
jeff
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Post by Radek Kastner on May 22, 2010 19:44:51 GMT
I am OK with you , dry is not necessarily hot , but with hot pic neverless , here in europe 27°c it is hot . abscis acidic ? for me these succulent leaves - arachnioide leaves - onion is just a compensate for their lack of water, as on other plants that have either leaves (agave, aloe), stems (Stapelia-Euphorbia) or roots (caudex) (Adenium, Fock) succulent. to pass the dry saison quietly jeff Hi Jeff, every change is caused by external or internal stimulant (temperature, weather, water, year period, disease, pollution etc.) which launches biological and chemical reaction.... cause = not enough water (for example) reagent for providing changes in plant structure = abscis acidic (for example consequence = winter rosette (for example) |
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