thwyman
Full Member
N=R* fs fp ne fl fi fc L
Posts: 133
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Post by thwyman on Jun 4, 2007 11:54:41 GMT
D. falconeri "Palmerston" 1 month after dormancy D. falconeri TAHBWG 2 months post de-flask D. falconeri HL And my best D. ordensis: TAHBWG clone #2
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Post by endodoc on Jun 4, 2007 12:48:19 GMT
thwyman very nice pics, please comment on soil used, it looks like a sand/peat/perlite combo?? do you TC these plants yourself? regards ed
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thwyman
Full Member
N=R* fs fp ne fl fi fc L
Posts: 133
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Post by thwyman on Jun 4, 2007 17:59:47 GMT
Hey Ed,
With the exception of the falconeri HL (which is in 1/1 LFS/perlite) all my petiolaris complex are in the following mix:
2/2/1/1 perlite/sand/LFS/pine bark mulch. And to every 15 parts of that I add 1 part of the red clay that is endemic to these parts.
I do not TC these myself, I have a friend who does some TC work and he give me material to play with.
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Post by jm82792 on Jun 5, 2007 7:48:33 GMT
I am trying tc,so is it an easier species to do? Would you in theory keep the cultures well lighted and warm?
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thwyman
Full Member
N=R* fs fp ne fl fi fc L
Posts: 133
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Post by thwyman on Jun 5, 2007 11:27:15 GMT
Hey JM,
Since I do not have first hand experience with the actual TC process I can not say for sure but it seems that almost all the petiolaris complex are easy to TC as we have all but one species in culture.
As far as light and temps of the cultures, next time I am at the lab I will see if I can get some pics. The short answer though is "no". The racks for the flasks are lit, usually by a 4 shoplights per shelf. This is enough to keep the plants growing but not in top form. They are pretty much just green and may be a little etiolated depending on where they are positoined. And the temp in the lab is just normal room temp, around 23C, maybe a little cooler. There is no reason you could not do higher light levels but I am not sure I would go for higher temps.
The plants acclimate fast once transfered out (at least for me at any rate) as you can see from the pic.
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