|
Post by magnum on Mar 29, 2007 23:52:09 GMT
I have tried multiple to grow these from seed and i have failed miserably. I scarify the pointy end and soak them overnight in distilled water. Then i place them on moist vermiculite in a closed plastic container. All I ever get is a very short root that turns black and nothing else. How do people who know what they are doing germinate this seed?
|
|
|
Post by vicbrown on Mar 30, 2007 6:45:26 GMT
I've germinated and successfully grown Drosophyllum from seed to maturity several times. I don't scarify the 'pointy end' of the seeds. Rather, I scarify two sides of the seed coat - I use the very fine diamond file on my Leatherman multitool, but fine abrasive paper would work. I file away carefully until the white endosperm is clearly visible but don't break through the seed coat. Then I soak the seeds for 24 hours before sowing on the same gritty/sandy mixture that I intend to use for the adult plants; 1 part peat : 2 parts silica sand : 2 parts lime-free grit. The seeds are planted at a depth of approx. 5mm and covered with fine sand. The pots are kept damp in full sun without any covering and the germination rate is high. To start the seedlings I use small peat pots - I'm not sure if these are available in the US, but they are really useful because when you want to transplant the seedling, all you do is tear off the bottom of the pot and put the whole thing into the final pot. This way there is no root disturbance, which Drosophyllum detests. Ditch the vermiculite and use a sandier mix - they grow in nearly pure sand in habitat. The don't come from bogs, so don't need high humidity either - ditch the baggie! Here is a picture of my good self in the middle of Drosophyllum habitat in S. Spain, think dry, rocky and sandy with this species. Cheers Vic
|
|
|
Post by magnum on Mar 30, 2007 14:56:19 GMT
How do you keep the pots wet? Do you use the tray method or do you overhead irrigate frequently?
|
|
|
Post by vicbrown on Mar 30, 2007 15:13:17 GMT
I use the double-pot method for my plants, once I've transplanted them. It isn't necessary though, I've seen lots of well-grown plants in large single pots - I do it more as a kind of homage to Adrian Slack than for any other reason. See Adrian Slack's books for details or read Peter D'Amato's CPN article, available on-line www.carnivorousplants.org/cpn/samples/Cult294SlackPot.htmI believe it is important to use large and deep pots for Drosophyllum, as they have deep root systems. With a deep pot, the top half of the soil never has to be wet. I don't keep them wet most of the time - I just water the outer pot from above occasionally - more often in hot weather. Another advantage of large pots is that the compost takes a very long time to dry out completely. The only time I stand them in water is when I take a vacation for more than a week - then I stand the pot in about 1 inch of water before I go. I use terracotta clay pots which keep the roots cool through evaporation and along with the open and free-draining compost, don't allow the plants to sit in waterlogged conditions. With seedlings, I allow the compost in the peat pots to dry out quite a lot after germination and water occasionally on the tray method, from below. If allowed to get too dry, seedlings wilt slightly and lose their dew - it pays to be around everyday to keep an eye out for this. Vic
|
|
|
Post by magnum on Apr 3, 2007 0:22:54 GMT
When you say compost, what do you mean soil? or do you use compost?
|
|
|
Post by vicbrown on Apr 8, 2007 10:08:24 GMT
I mean the sandy mix consisting of: 1 part peat : 2 parts silica sand : 2 parts lime-free grit, that I mentioned in the previous post.
Vic
|
|
|
Post by ICPS-bob on Apr 8, 2007 16:58:44 GMT
When you say compost, what do you mean soil? or do you use compost? Remember that this is an international forum and different countries have different common definitions of words. In the US, definition 1 is the most common; whereas Vic (UK) was referring to definition 2. compost, n. 1. a mixture of various decaying organic substances, as dead leaves or manure, used for fertilizing soil. 2. a composition; compound. —v.t. 3. to use in compost; make compost of: to compost manure and kitchen scraps. 4. to apply compost to (soil). —v.i. 5. to make compost: Shredded leaves will compost easily.
|
|
|
Post by magnum on Apr 9, 2007 2:18:06 GMT
Thanks for all the help. I have just planted the seeds and I will post my results when I get them. I expect it to be quite a while though because the seed was collected in October
|
|
|
Post by vicbrown on Apr 9, 2007 6:30:31 GMT
Yes, I was using the term 'compost' in the 'Olde English' manner to mean a soil mix - Adrian Slack does the same in his two seminal books on CPs. Don't put the seeds on rotted vegetable matter! Vic
|
|
|
Post by kpg on Apr 11, 2007 3:01:15 GMT
I have successfully germinated and raised plants without scarification. If the seed is fresh, special treatment doesn't seem necessary.
One plant has been on the front porch for several years. Wind has knocked it out of the pot and onto the ground about 5 feet below several times. I don't recommend it, but it has survived this rather severe root disturbance.
|
|
|
Post by Dave Evans on Apr 11, 2007 22:12:08 GMT
Dear Magnum, You can simply use a fine-medium grain sand paper, fold it over and gently rub the seed between your thumb and fingers two or three times. All you have to do is scratch the outer layer of the seed coat, you do not have to break through it. In the right conditions it will soften and breakdown on it's own, it just will take longer. You do not have to soak the seed either, this probably helps promote damp-off diseases, as these plants do not like particularly wet conditions unlike most Carnivorous Plants, they have no immunity to many soil diseases which live in wet soil. "Closed plastic container" sounds like it would cause the humidity to rise way too high for Drosophyllum, again promoting rot. Try treating them more like a "normal" plant or a bush even. Grow them out in the open, let them get sunlight, but avoid exposing them to heavy or long rains (ex: three days of rain killed my plants), like you would a cactus and I think you will have much better luck with them in the future. I have tried multiple to grow these from seed and i have failed miserably. I scarify the pointy end and soak them overnight in distilled water. Then i place them on moist vermiculite in a closed plastic container. All I ever get is a very short root that turns black and nothing else. How do people who know what they are doing germinate this seed?
|
|
|
Post by magnum on Apr 12, 2007 0:52:17 GMT
Is it ok to keep the soil constantly moist durring germination, or should I let dry out a little?
|
|
|
Post by Dave Evans on Apr 12, 2007 2:08:35 GMT
Yes, keep the soil moist. Not wet, not dry. The soil can be kept moist to wet during germination and soon thereafter, but only if they are outside getting sunlight. Inside, keep the soil moist only. (If you are using a HPS inside, consider it sunlight ) The seeds germinate during the fall, when the temps are lower and humidity is higher, and winter is similar and colder. Well adapted outdoor plants can even handle a little snow, as per Jan Flisek. www.bestcarnivorousplants.org/fotogalerie/sr51-1166.htmlIn summer, they tend to get most water in the form of dew, at night, and not much rain. The days are drier and the soil surface is dry to the touch. Good Growing, Dave Evans
|
|
|
Post by magnum on Apr 15, 2007 20:42:06 GMT
I came back from a sailing regatta this weekend and was suprised to see a small seedling poking up through the sand! Thanks for all the germination tips. Now, if I can only keep it alive... False alarm. It was a weed
|
|
|
Post by magnum on May 3, 2007 19:11:09 GMT
This time i have one, and a picture to prove it. How long should i let it grow until I slack pot it?
|
|