Sarracenias leaf pullings

[richardhole]

Hello

I am in the process of dividing and Sarracenias and doing leaf pullings.

I have a greenhouse with 50% white Solarweave plastic. In the greenhouse I have a mister that cuts on when the gauze on the balance arm loses weight due to the evaporation of water on it so the mister goes off many times a day. It is only a light fog that lightly dampens the leaves.

With Sarracenia leaf pullings would it be much of an advantage to grow them in this misted greenhouse or would they grow just as well in my other greenhouse that is also covered in 50% white solarweave plastic but does not have the mister going unless the temperatures go above 30 degrees?

Would I have to use fairly young leaves or ones that have not fully developed or would older leaves also work provided they are still green?

Should I cut most of the leaf off and when they are planted have the leaf standing vertically if they grow that way? Sarracenia psittacina would be placed almost horizontally.

Would I only bury the very base of the leaf where it attaches to the crown so that the bottom of the stem may only be about half and inch below the surface of the soil?

Is rooting hormone much of an advantage?

I also read:
"Not all Sarracenia species propagate via leaf pullings either. Sarracenia purpurea and Sarracenia psittacina are the best candidates for leaf pullings. Strike rate is about 50%. The other species don't respond to leaf pullings."

Is that your experience?


Your help is appreciated
Regards Richard.

[stevebooth]

Hi Richard

This is what I do with varying degrees of success on all forms of sarracenias and hybrids, minor crosses and 'Juthatip Soper' as well as purp hybrids seem to work well -you will need to take a leaf from a juvenile or semi mature plant (mature plants don’t work for me) with the horseshoe shaped clasp of rhizome still attached to it, where it was attached to the rhizome, looking white and alive. To get this material, gently tug a leaf, preferably one at the end of the rhizome, backwards and away from the rhizome, it should tear off cleanly. Clean the leaf of dead material, all I have ever done is cut the top off the leaf to about 100- 150mm long, to reduce moisture loss due to transpiration, pushed these leaves into the soil (about 50mm deep) and it either grew or it didn’t. However if you were to take the trouble either to wrap these pullings in sphagnum, keep the humidity high as the transpiration from the leaf could potentially be too great for the non existent or fledgling roots, put in favourable light and heat, with water, then you will probably get a much better success rate.

Cheers
Steve

[richardhole]

Hello

Has anyone every tried striking Sarracenia leaf pullings in pure water and if so, how does the strike rates compare to using a growing medium like peat moss? If they could grow in water it would save a lot of room and time preparing the growing medium and planting the cuttings in the propagating trays. I heard that the strike rate of Sarracenia leaf pullings can be a bit low so a lot of time and space would be wasted if they are planted in a growing medium. Water would be simpler to just get the initial roots starting to grow and then those that produced the roots could be planted in a growing medium like peat moss and perlite.

I read Nepenthes can strike in pure water so I thought Sarracenia might as well. If anyone has reported success with Sarracenia, did they have the cuttings in a sealed bag or container or did they find distilled water was an advantage. This may save changing the water as often as this would take time.

Regards Richard.

[coline]

I've not tried on pure water but a couple of weeks ago I made some Scarlett belle and Tarnok pullings taking in advantage I wanted to make a bud induction procedure, and well, let's see how they go, they are on LFS.