coline
Full Member
Life's essence: patience
Posts: 484
|
Post by coline on Oct 24, 2015 3:18:26 GMT
You need to see on the amount of lumens it has, the total area below that you have and the amount of heat it makes, you may start at 20-30cm maybe and see how it goes
|
|
|
Post by Kgrizzlefoshizzle on Oct 24, 2015 22:37:55 GMT
Awesome thanks ! I also have one other question… Is nine band LED sufficient for growing or does it need to be 12 band?
|
|
Green Hornet
Full Member
Ride, Shoot Straight & Tell the Truth
Posts: 14
|
Post by Green Hornet on Nov 1, 2015 14:47:08 GMT
I can see the appeal of LEDs for production purposes, particularly as it relates to managing power consumption. I have thought about using the LEDs again for rooting cuttings. However, for the hobbyist (even the committed ones like me) T-5s are easier to find and use. Lighting of all kinds has gotten so effective that it's a simple matter to overwhelm and stress or burn the leaves of even plants that like a lot of light, though most neps really don't need that much. Given that I live in Houston and find managing highland tanks a constant major pain, I limit myself to lowlanders that will grow outside as well as intermediates & hybrids that will grow well in terrariums or outdoors. I really want to put in a real greenhouse, but in Houston, a swamp cooler system would be mandatory and that adds a level of complexity I'm still evaluating. Till then, I will likely continue to stick with the T-5s.
As for boacrazed, 300 watts of LED is rather a lot of light. LEDs are extremely directional. Unless you are diffusing it, I would advise to start out with the light set very high and lower it as needed. Keep a journal and note even the smallest changes in the plants. Look for signs of burning especially and keep raising or lowering the lights until that slows or stops. Many LEDs will now work with conventional rheostats. Don't know if your's will, but its worth looking into.
|
|
|
Post by Kgrizzlefoshizzle on Nov 1, 2015 22:04:13 GMT
Thanks for the input Green hornet .. Much appreciated will update in the near future
|
|
mraroid
Full Member
Salem, Oregon, USA, home to native Darlingtonia californica
Posts: 15
|
Post by mraroid on Oct 30, 2018 21:07:08 GMT
|
|
coline
Full Member
Life's essence: patience
Posts: 484
|
Post by coline on Oct 31, 2018 2:26:25 GMT
Red and blue LED are the standard for plant growing, nowadays cheap enough to use on any configuration, what is missing from that item is how many lumens does it make, that is the most important as to compare it to other options in wattage consumption or price/expenses. Some people grow their plants just with those 2 colors, but I like to use plain white 5000-6500k for aesthetic purposes of looking at your growing area.
|
|
mraroid
Full Member
Salem, Oregon, USA, home to native Darlingtonia californica
Posts: 15
|
Post by mraroid on Oct 31, 2018 14:40:55 GMT
Thank you for your post coline.... I also prefer a white light between 5,000 - 6,500 K. But I did not know if that was correct for pitcher plants. I am trying to give additional light to Nepenthes ventrata in a 6 inch pot. The lamp I had on hand is 1,600 lumens, and the color temp is 5,000 K It is 17.5 watts. It is a LED lamp. Not enough light? I am going shopping again today looking for LED lamps with more watts, and more lumens. I can probably find a LED light bulb that is 5,500 to 6,000 K but I am not sure if I can find a bulb that is much more than 17.5 watts. If I had the above 17.5 Watt lamp, how close to the top of the plant would you recommend? The lumens rating for the light I just bought on Amazon is 2,000. Not enough? OK?
I live in Oregon USA. We will have cloud cover and little sun until maybe April of 2019. The plant is in a south facing window.
Thanks again for your feedback mraroid
|
|
mraroid
Full Member
Salem, Oregon, USA, home to native Darlingtonia californica
Posts: 15
|
Post by mraroid on Oct 31, 2018 20:13:14 GMT
Thanks again for your feedback mraroid
********************* I found this FAQ. It is the most helpful yet: www.carnivorousplants.org/grow/SoilsWaterLight/LEDplantlightingI have some LEDs bulbs that have a CRI rating of 90, but not 95 as recommended. But 90 is better than than 80 or 85 that was not rated very well. I think between the time the above FAQ was written, LED technology price point moved from 80 CRI to 90. The 95 CRI bulbs are probably not considered specialized products any more as the article states. I believe LED lamps are upgrading them selves and the prices are lowering as time goes on. Here is a 95 CRI bulb for $10.00: www.amazon.com/CRI-2700K-Equivalent-Light-Bulb/dp/B07BCKTQ4V/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1541014812&sr=8-9&keywords=95+CRI+bulbs I don't consider $10.00 for a light bulb to be excessive. But I just might just try what I have now and see how that turns out. This is my setup - The bulb is a LED floodlight. It is 19 watts, PAR 38, 1,500 lumens, and the color temperature is 3,000 K. The light is set up so that the plant that is arriving should sit about 11 inches (28 cm) below the flood light. The flood light has a 40 degree spread. I will be trying to grow Nepenthes ventrata. The plant is suppose to be in a 6 inch (15.5 cm) wide pot. Suggestions welcome. Thanks mraroid
|
|
|
Post by coursair on Nov 7, 2018 10:41:18 GMT
My little indoor Greenhouse is a year old now. I’m using a Sunblaster T5HO on the top shelf And a cheap 45 watt Red/Blue LED Panel for the middle and bottom shelf. My little glabrata grows under the LEDs As does my H. pulchella (Akopan Tepui) The greenhouse is much more crowded now since the ICPS Conference this August in California 🌞 There are 26 baby Neps crowded in among Pings, Drosera, Helis, etc... I’m also researching my next lights. I’d prefer White LEDs this time.
|
|