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Post by BarryRice on Jul 9, 2010 17:52:14 GMT
Those are the best plants I've ever seen in cultivation. Spectacular!
I'm heading up to Butterfly Valley tomorrow to see them in the wild---I hope they approach the way your plants look!!!!!
B
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Post by krakatoa on Jan 18, 2011 17:13:54 GMT
Man I'm gnashing my teeth over here!!! Pat yourself on the back man! Those have got to be the most gorgeous Darlingtonias I have EVER seen in cultivation, PERIOD!
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eric
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Post by eric on Jan 18, 2011 20:04:46 GMT
Amazing looking plants. Very nice job!
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fredg
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Post by fredg on Aug 28, 2013 18:05:15 GMT
Hi Guys: I'm so proud and envious of your ability to grow Darlingtonia. We received a donation of coastal and mountain Darlingtonia from Sarracenia Northwest about two months ago. We set them up on the dripping wet concrete floor of the greenhouse (soil temp of 69F - upper limit for Darlingtonia in my book). Greenhouse has evaporative cooler and shade cloth. Well, forget the mountain clones. They briefly started to grow, stopped, and blackened. The coastal plants produced pitchers but they got attacked by fungus and all the plants are now dead. I really wonder what the difference is in cultivation between England and eastern U.S. I'm very suspicious of an indigenous pathogen but who knows. Sincerely, Phil Sheridan Meadowview Phil I finally got around to installing digital thermometers in the various colonies this year. The standard analogue thermometers were just a nuisance to read ( I retained these as calibration  ) I'm afraid your 69F maximum for Darligtonia roots is a little off, at least as far as my plants are concerned. In June that was the minimum temperature on some days. The maximum root temperature I recorded this year was 32.4C (90.3F) My results are logged here floridacpsociety.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=cobra&action=display&thread=784&page=1 |
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Post by Not a Number on Aug 29, 2013 3:23:41 GMT
I really wonder what the difference is in cultivation between England and eastern U.S. I'm very suspicious of an indigenous pathogen but who knows. Sincerely, Phil Sheridan Meadowview I've often wondered if the populations in cultivation in the UK and Western Europe have been inadvertently "artificially" selected for vigor or other traits. For instance UK and other European growers report that the seeds do not require cold stratification to germinate. Yet from numerous trials with seed from my own plants, the ICPS seedbank and field collected I have never been able to get germination without stratification. |
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Post by jdallas on Aug 29, 2013 5:14:14 GMT
I've really been exploring the pathogen issue recently. I've been working with OSU extension Master Gardeners, and there's a strong possibility that Darlingtonia is subject to Phytopthora or similar fungus infections. I've taken specimens of our plants that have shown the typical root rot, treated them by dipping them in Tebuconazole fungicide (Bayer Disease Control), and currently, to the plant, they have survived after the fungicide treatment. Since Phytopthora is water-borne it would make sense, and the their native Serpentine habitats may help inhibit it. Cultural conditions (cool root-run, water flow, aeration, planting in live sphagnum) probably all contribute to keeping whatever this fungus is at bay. I'd love to hear if anyone has more empirical evidence on this issue. Currently I recommend to customers that they not let Darlingtonia come in contact with the ground such as putting pots on the ground with regular soil or setting them out on a lawn.
Jeff
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fredg
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Post by fredg on Aug 29, 2013 17:13:58 GMT
I've often wondered if the populations in cultivation in the UK and Western Europe have been inadvertently "artificially" selected for vigor or other traits. Is there enough "Othello" around to select the more vigorous ones? ( NB All anthocyanin free Darlingtonia are "Othello" so at some time there should be many genetically different ones available) The plant in my collection is from an "Othello" where the main plant repeatedly collapsed from "heat exhaustion" and small plants were rescued from stolons. It has a reputation of being very tricky. I received mine a few years ago and it is now romping away, so much so that I've had to upgrade to a double tray. The following plant is this season's growth, it broke surface on May 16th.  Even at what I suppose is deemed high temperatures. |
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Post by Not a Number on Sept 1, 2013 2:01:54 GMT
If you look back in one of the early issues of The Carnivorous Plant Newsletter it says Dr. Leo Song at California State University Fullerton found the maximum root temperature for the species was around 81-83°F. |
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fredg
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Post by fredg on Sept 1, 2013 7:50:16 GMT
If you look back in one of the early issues of The Carnivorous Plant Newsletter it says Dr. Leo Song at California State University Fullerton found the maximum root temperature for the species was around 81-83°F. Ooops, it looks like the Dr was singing the wrong song. |
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Post by Not a Number on Sept 1, 2013 15:32:51 GMT
Ooops, it looks like the Dr was singing the wrong song. Without seeing Leo Song's notes we have no idea what duration the plants were exposed to these temperatures. Neither have you reported durations. In personal experience I tried a forced growth protocol of Sarracenia seedlings as suggested by Steven Millar. Soil temperatures are kept at a constant 81-82°F with continuous artificial lighting (no dark period). Using this method Steven Millar reports plants can be grown to flowering maturity in as little as three years. My trials using this method supported this claim. Out of curiosity I wondered if the same conditions would work also with Darlingtonia. I stratified 40 fresh seeds (collect from my own plants) for 4 weeks in the refrigerator on finely chopped live Sphagnum moss. The seeds were divided in two batches of 20 seeds each an sown in to plastic containers containing moist chopped long fiber sphagnum. The containers were sealed with clear plastic wrap, one batch placed in a seed heating mat, thermostat controlled set at a soil temperature of 82°F and constant lighting. The other batch was placed on a typical "grow self" (ambient room temperatures, artificial lighting on a 16 hour on / 8 hour off lighting period). Germination in both groups started within 12 days. There was 100% germination in both groups however the seedlings in the heated group all died shortly after shedding the seed coat. While I have not repeated the experiment with more controls my tentative conclusion is that this forced growth method does not work with Darlingtonia. It wasn't until about a year later that I ran across Dr. Song's finding in the CPN while reading the archives on CD. I only kept a few seedlings from the control group. After the third year they all died without ever coming out of dormancy that year. The post mortem revealed a mealybug infestation. BTW - Leo Song who you make fun of was one of the early editors of The Carnivorous Plant Newsletter. If I am not mistaken he was also one of the founding members of the ICPS. |
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fredg
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Post by fredg on Sept 1, 2013 16:49:26 GMT
Ooops, it looks like the Dr was singing the wrong song. Without seeing Leo Song's notes we have no idea what duration the plants were exposed to these temperatures. Neither have you reported durations. BTW - Leo Song who you make fun of was one of the early editors of The Carnivorous Plant Newsletter. If I am not mistaken he was also one of the founding members of the ICPS. Are you saying you have misquoted Dr Song? By stating a maximum no duration is implied, the plants will die with root temperatures at 81-83F. This is clearly not the case. Previous or current Editors of the ICPS Newsletter whether Doctor or Professor when wrong are as wrong as anyone else. |
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coline
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Life's essence: patience
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Post by coline on Sept 3, 2013 1:53:20 GMT
I'm trying a different approach, I got some seeds this year and I'm trying to take advantage on the coolness provided by shade and a wall facing west, I germinated seeds in artificial light with around the 20ºC that winter lets me have indoors at floor level, and then they were transfered to the second level of a growing bench in my open greenhouse.
At this moment they are about the size of sarracenia seedlings of their same age, and this time of the year lets them be at a low of 24-25ºC, they have 2-4hours of sun, but I have not measured how much exposure they get.
Almost none has died
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fredg
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Post by fredg on Sept 3, 2013 15:30:35 GMT
What are the temperatures you are citing? Air or root?
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fredg
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Post by fredg on Sept 8, 2013 11:48:30 GMT
This is the small half tray that I set up on June 16th when the plant's stolon was seperated from the mother plant.  The same plant today, September 8th, after a summer where the root temperature peaked at 90F.  It doesn't look too bad really does it. |
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coline
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Life's essence: patience
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Post by coline on Sept 12, 2013 18:46:14 GMT
What are the temperatures you are citing? Air or root? Air, root temperatures are almost the same but lower since the day has not much of a change to during the night |
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