dara
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Posts: 10
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Post by dara on Apr 12, 2009 1:09:17 GMT
I recently repotted my Sarracenia while it was/is in its dormancy--it appears to still be. And there are multiple bumpy, brownish--Im guessing-- "scales" ALL OVER the few remaining leaves. I have no definite diagnosis, but it does look like scales--and thats what it reads like when I go over my books for info. Fungicides and other chemicals make me nervous as I've never used them- would it be better to cut the leaves off at the base and wait for the new shoots to arrive?? Will my other plants be affected by this--should I also quarantine my sick baby?? I haven't had to deal with any setbacks thus far and I'm quite apprehensive as to how to act. Help!!
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taz6122
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Yesterday is History.Tomorrow is a Mystery and Today is a Gift.Thats why we call it the Present.
Posts: 289
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Post by taz6122 on Apr 12, 2009 2:57:13 GMT
Can you post a picture. It sure would help. Ortho systemic insect killer will work although Aidan disagrees on the use of systemics. Ortho ecosense brand insecticidal soap will work although NaN will disagree on the use of soaps with CPs. If you use the soap or the systemic in a spray then spray again 15 minutes later with pure water. Hold your plant upside down with a finger on each side of the plant to keep it from falling out of the pot to spray with both insecticide and water. You might want to wear gloves to keep the insecticide off your hands and a mask to keep it out of your lungs. Read the labels to the end before using and you will be OK. Ortho systemic can be found at Home Depot and the ecosense at walmart.
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Post by Not a Number on Apr 12, 2009 9:46:55 GMT
Re: Insecticidal soaps
You'll come across enough horror stories from people using soaps on their CPs that one should proceed with caution. If they work for you fine. If they damage your plants all I can say is that you were warned.
Insecticidal soaps usually contain potassium salts, something you do not want building up in your medium.
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dara
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Posts: 10
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Post by dara on Apr 12, 2009 14:04:21 GMT
Well thanks to both of you for replying-- I'm embarrassed to confess that I cannot figure out how to post a picture!- or else I certainly would have. That aside, I will look into a soap treatment-- though, without a positive ID on the pest I'm still a little wary. Is it safe to say that "NO" is the answer to just cutting them off??
(and if one would like to send me a short tutorial on the posting of pix, I'd be all ears...or eyes, rather) Thanks again!!
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Post by Not a Number on Apr 12, 2009 14:54:19 GMT
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dara
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Posts: 10
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Post by dara on Apr 12, 2009 16:58:57 GMT
You are too kind!! Thank you for all of your efforts. Happy Growing!!
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Post by Aidan on Apr 15, 2009 0:15:06 GMT
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taz6122
Full Member
Yesterday is History.Tomorrow is a Mystery and Today is a Gift.Thats why we call it the Present.
Posts: 289
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Post by taz6122 on Apr 15, 2009 18:03:25 GMT
Maybe I took this out of context and maybe it was because I was using it inside on thrips but here is a couple quotes from that thread. I would never use it outside because of the threat to the honey bee, but inside is not a problem since I wont be eating the plants myself. lol I'd be rather less worried about honey bees and rather more worried about my central nervous sytem! ;D
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Post by Aidan on Apr 15, 2009 22:56:29 GMT
Indeed you did. In my initial reply to that thread I suggested the use of imidacloprid or thiacloprid, both of which are systemic nicotine analogues.
What I personally would not recommend are organophosphate compounds. There are way too many reports of central nervous system damage to users, let alone the target organisms.
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taz6122
Full Member
Yesterday is History.Tomorrow is a Mystery and Today is a Gift.Thats why we call it the Present.
Posts: 289
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Post by taz6122 on Apr 15, 2009 23:07:21 GMT
Oook organophosphate is going on the no-no list. Thanks for the clarification.
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Post by Not a Number on Apr 16, 2009 7:56:51 GMT
Indeed you did. In my initial reply to that thread I suggested the use of imidacloprid or thiacloprid, both of which are systemic nicotine analogues. Oddly enough the UC Davis Pest Management Program states that Imidacloprid is ineffective on armoured scale: www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7408.html#MANAGEMENTA soil application of the systemic insecticide imidacloprid can provide season-long control of soft scales and certain other species such as European elm scale. Imidacloprid is not effective on armored scales and certain other species such as cottony cushion scale. Imidacloprid is available to both homeowners (Bayer Advanced Garden Tree & Shrub Insect Control) and professional applicators (Merit and others). Imidacloprid can be effective when applied to soil during late winter to early spring or before rainfall or irrigation are expected to facilitate root absorption of the insecticide. Summer application to stressed, heavily infested trees is less likely to be effective and is not recommended. BTW: I've heard reports that Orthene spray (everybody's favorite organo-phosphate) is getting difficult to find in stores or on clearance sale. Possibly it is getting "pulled".
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