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Post by sundewmatt on Apr 28, 2015 15:10:01 GMT
hi everyone!
believe it or not, im still using ancient T12 fluorescent lighting fixtures and I need to upgrade. a long time ago, i bought some high output t5 fixtures. i tested them briefly and realized they ran way too hot for the plants i was growing. even with only 2 out of 4 bulbs installed, they're too hot. (im now selling these unused fixtures at a loss if anyone in the US is interested). so... im growing mostly drosera, with a few heliamphora and cephalotus. plants are in pots sitting in terraria which are sealed, so heat from the lights should be minimal. if you've been growing drosera well under lights for a long time, please let me know what fixtures and bulb types you're using and a little bit more about your growing setup, and also post pics of your plants or links to pics of your plants. thanks! matt
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naoki
Full Member
Posts: 5
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Post by naoki on Apr 29, 2015 20:48:25 GMT
I grow cooler-growing orchids in completely enclosed cases (to maintain high RH), and I face the similar problem. In my 3x2x2' case, I can only put small amount of high efficiency LEDs. I'm using Philips XF-3535L which is supplementing the T5HO mounted outside of the case. This LED is a pretty efficient one. When it is running at 22.5W, it raises the temp of the enclosure about 5F. So I can probably put a couple more of this LED strip. But I think it might be tough to get enough light for the plants you listed. I'm surprised that T12 doesn't warm up the case too much (it is much less efficient than T8 and T5). Here is the thread of how to make it www.slippertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32642&page=3With all LEDs, if you run the emitter at the lower current, they have higher efficiency (i.e. more energy is released as heat). In other words, you use 100W LED emitter, but drive it at a low current, so it is using only 20W etc. The absolute output is lower, but the efficiency is higher. This can be easily done in DIY LED, but it does cost you quite a bit. Another possibility is using water cooling. You mount the LED (chip-on-board type is easier, something like Cree CXB series or Bridgelux Vero series) to the liquid cooling heatsink, and setup the radiator outside of the enclosure. I have thought about this, but it is a bit more expensive, so I haven't done it. Did you consider modifying the T5HO fixture, and get the ballast out of the enclosure?
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Post by sundewmatt on Apr 30, 2015 16:47:18 GMT
hi naoki thanks for the reply. i want to buy a pre-assembled unit as i dont want to play around with DIY electronics. i need something that's been totally UL approved over here so anyone else with recommendations, please reply here. thanks matt
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naoki
Full Member
Posts: 5
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Post by naoki on Apr 30, 2015 21:14:28 GMT
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Post by RL7836 on May 12, 2015 13:07:47 GMT
The LED market is definitely a jungle at this time. There are some great high output, high CRI LEDs being produced but finding them pre-assembled into a UL approved fixture can be rough.
I'm watching the developments from a distance as I don't have the need to throw money at the newest technology & watch my plants (& wallet) suffer for it. In the meantime T5's w/ parabolic mirror reflectors are working well.
Have you measured the light levels that your plants are receiving? You may be able to place the T5 fixtures several inches above your tanks & reduce the heat while still getting the plants the same light (as the T5s have a better output especially w/ the parabolic mirrors).
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Post by sundewmatt on May 16, 2015 21:19:19 GMT
hey ron thanks for the reply! these fixtures ive got that are unusable are t5 *HO* fixtures. no matter how far away from the plants i place them, they're not going to be any good because they increase the air temperature in my apartment by too much. if i was growing plants in a cool basement, they'd probably be ok. are you using t5 HO or just regular t5? im also looking for fixtures that are already wired up and ready to plug in. and... what color temp are the bulbs youre using? / which bulbs? thanks! matt
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