arh
Full Member
Drifting
Posts: 18
|
Post by arh on Mar 11, 2014 9:29:06 GMT
I will simply add a growing blend and some advice that has been working for me. Others have a right to their own opinions if anyone disagrees. I have been having success with all of my new arrival plants by planting them in simple long fiber sphagnum moss that was bought from Amazon. I'm not sure of the brand, it has orange writing, and it is advertised as being New Zealand LFS. I also use the Mosser Lee brand from Lowes, if I need to physically have sphagnum moss immediately, but there are a lot more fungi spores and seeds and junk with our native moss. The New Zealand makes a more attractive media. It comes in a bale, simply pull some out, pull it apart so it's loose, and gently and loosely stuff it into whatever pot you want. Your nepenthes will be incredibly small upon arrival, and it's kinda a small hybrid, so plant it in something smaller to start with, that way it's easier to control it's use of water. Feel how light the pot is dry and then after you plant your plant (which sometimes may not even have visible roots) and soak the moss. You already know to use distilled water, and the depth of planting the actual plant was covered, which I agree with, another helpful hint is if your plant is very small, under an inch, you can use a turned over clear plastic glass to help add the humidity close to the plant. Very small plants are more prone to rot, which is why I wouldn't keep it in a terrarium for more than a week or 2 after it's arrival. If it arrives with any pitchers on it, fill them up with distilled water. This helps prolong their life some, but all pitchers that were in transport usually die, so just so you know to accept that and get ready to focus on the new growth more. I have yet to come across any nepenthes species where New Zealand long fiber sphagnum wasn't good enough to start a plant out in, in fact it's saved a few for me( n. hamata and a ceph). The only thing to look for is a green "jelly" that forms on the tops of the moss if you have it over watered. This lets you know you are over watering though, and rotting the media. The moss will actually start to grow itself and form a nice top dressing. I have never been a huge fan of using wood (orchid bark) in mixes as it may eventually affect the PH. I do use it still though. Oh and do not over think things... you will be pleasantly surprised to see how easy it is to grow nepenthes, I'm telling you. Just do not place it by a heater, be careful if you put it in a window with ANY sun yet, it might not be ready for that. Always start out with really indirect or weak artificial lighting until you see how the leaves are reacting, turning brown etc. Any questions, fire away still. Oh here's some plant pics of my latest pitcher for you. Attachments:
|
|
|
Post by tanukimo on Mar 11, 2014 9:35:01 GMT
The moss will actually start to grow itself and form a nice top dressing. Do you do anything special to make it do that? I've had some New Zealand sphagnum for a few months, and kept it humid and damp, yet it hasn't grown yet. The tips just turn a little green.
|
|
arh
Full Member
Drifting
Posts: 18
|
Post by arh on Mar 11, 2014 9:42:26 GMT
Well to be honest (quick cue that stupid song they use in every commercial now!...) some of it grows for me, most of it eventually dries back out and becomes tan again. I attribute this to me growing without a greenhouse. The baskets I have with a good cover of moss take a lot more water just to sustain that and it seems like once a clump gets going, it'll stay wet longer but it doesn't spread easy for me. I've placed pieces of the living moss inside my terrariums and multiplied it 10 fold, but, it grows so slow and I have it just on the bottom on glass and it slimes up with algae and eventually becomes a slimy useless mess for me.
|
|
|
Post by sykosarah on Mar 12, 2014 1:54:19 GMT
I have a living population of sphagnum moss I could establish in the pot should I want it at the top, and some dried dead moss left over from helping a friend pot a piece of my own Venus flytrap (took a plant from the colony for the first time, it is doing well now). pH won't be an issue; I take chemistry and could borrow some of the pH paper if I asked, and I have sulfur that I was trying to use as a fungicide which so happens to lower the pH of the soil it is sprinkled on, should that become a problem. I like to use bigger pots because they dry out slower when you wrap them up to keep humidity in, I like to use deep pots for plants that appreciate drainage and have extensive roots. The fact that those pitchers will likely perish makes me sad, but I was aware of that possibility. After my Venus flytrap weird winter leaf scare, I wasn't going to let ignorance give me opportunities to be freaked out by the crazy stuff CPs can do. I plan to use a semi clear small garbage bag to keep humidity in and filter bright light so that I can keep the plant near a light source other plants use without having to filter the light for all the plants (don't worry, I know to poke holes and be wary of temperature, I actually used a thermometer and the pot I am going to use to test what the best distance from the light will be to ensure temperatures won't get too high). That bag is about as transparent as a gallon of milk container, do you guys think this will allow enough light in if it was near a T5-HO light?
|
|
|
Post by sykosarah on Mar 12, 2014 4:27:23 GMT
I am so addicted, I am probably going to get a young ventricosa too XD
I love plants so much, and carnivorous plants just take the cake, they are so fun and exciting, and each has its own unique challenges. Even though I have been growing plants since I was a little kid, and I haven't grown CPs that long, I think I find them to be the most rewarding plants I have ever grown.
|
|
arh
Full Member
Drifting
Posts: 18
|
Post by arh on Mar 12, 2014 17:16:08 GMT
Just my own opinions based on what I've seen on planter size. Def find out what works for you. Just be careful with rot if you keep the plant sealed up, and no that will not be enough light for good growth or pitcher formation, maybe enough to settle your plant into your house for a week. Also remember, wood ashes would raise soil ph levels, but decomposing organic matter ( wood, peat) will lower the ph, so I personally wouldn't mess around with sulfur. Mold, mildew, or fungus will be less of a problem with a well ventilated planter, another reason I wouldn't seal it up. Your biggest challenge isn't the media or species, it's going to be the size and condition of the plant. Larger plants can adapt and overcome more obstacles. You made your purchase from Cook's right? I've had good nepenthes from him, just sometimes small.
|
|
|
Post by sykosarah on Mar 12, 2014 22:48:19 GMT
Well, the humidity in my area isn't high enough on its own... Do you guys think that setting a humidifier by the plant would be a good idea? It would blow around air and provide some air flow, but it would be moist air so it wouldn't be too dry, at least, that is what I would think would happen. As for the light, I could always just keep the plant a little farther away from it than the rest so that it isn't too strong. I have seen pictures so the plant looks good, has a pitcher or two, but I can't say what condition it will be in when it arrives because it hasn't yet, it has just been too cold in my area so I have delayed it until the first week of April.
|
|
|
Post by sykosarah on Mar 17, 2014 3:47:54 GMT
No response to my humidifier question?
|
|
|
Post by tanukimo on Mar 17, 2014 5:10:11 GMT
I don't have any experience with humidifiers, but it sounds like it would have an effect similar to misting the plant, which could help raise humidity levels. Are you planning on putting the plant outside? Indoors the humidity might be high enough for the plant to pitcher, but if it is outside I would definitely doing something to supplement the humidity, like misting the plant.
|
|
|
Post by sykosarah on Mar 17, 2014 6:38:53 GMT
Indoors, but humidity can get really low here (changes my hair to a statically mess) so I thought that it would be a great way to help with the low humidity and provide a little bit of air flow also. I am going to try it out and see if it works well or not.
|
|
arh
Full Member
Drifting
Posts: 18
|
Post by arh on Mar 17, 2014 20:45:47 GMT
sorry, wasn't paying attention... um a humidifier may work for you, if your humidity is that bad. I still think you will have success with the bare minimal. I had a humidifier (not for plants) and it encouraged mold to grow in the corners of my room and on some cardboard boxes and such, so I don't think they will work for my needs. A good amount of humidity will come right from your media, especially if you are using LFS. It wouldn't be enough to moisten up your whole room, but as for your plant, which will literally be in and right above it, it would likely be enough. Misting is awesome though. Buy an air pump kind of mister if you want one that really makes small moisture drops for humidity, and not just a normal spray bottle. I mist twice to 3 times a day, or if I notice my media is very wet still, I may only mist once or go a day or two without misting.
|
|
|
Post by sykosarah on Mar 17, 2014 22:11:41 GMT
My humidity is such that to go an hour or two without Chapstick would leave your lips cracked and bleeding, so I don't think mold would be an issue. That is why I am so focused on humidity, it is probably the biggest barrier to my growing these plants. I had to get my drosera seedlings adjusted to the humidity very slowly; in fact, even though they sprouted months ago they still aren't done in that process, and I might just leave them as they are because I don't think they will be able to form dew in the low humidity of my area. It gets better in the summer, but winter just desiccates the air.
|
|
|
Post by sykosarah on Mar 20, 2014 22:48:07 GMT
So after I get the plans, how long would you guys recommend for me to wait before I put some blood worms in the pitchers.
|
|
arh
Full Member
Drifting
Posts: 18
|
Post by arh on Mar 22, 2014 17:15:09 GMT
I wouldn't do it, personally.
|
|
|
Post by paulbarden on Mar 22, 2014 19:37:53 GMT
So after I get the plans, how long would you guys recommend for me to wait before I put some blood worms in the pitchers. Three months.
|
|