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Post by Hamata95 on Jun 11, 2011 0:24:20 GMT
I have been growing flytraps on and of, and I have never gotten to grow full size traps, how do people get large traps?
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Post by coldcoffee on Jun 11, 2011 6:55:17 GMT
There are a few factors that come into play that can help. First, some cultivars naturally produce larger traps than others- the most famous large trap cultivar probably being the B52(You can currently get these from most specialty VFT/CP retailers, they usually cost a bit more than other common cultivars). Getting a large trap cultivar will help. Second, if you allow your VFT to goto seed, traps tend to grow smaller since the seeding process takes a lot of energy from the VFT. So cut the flowers off before they goto seed. (Also, if you cut the flower stalk off- you can use it to propagate a new cutting) Third, make sure you are growing the plant in its proper conditions. Especially under a good deal of light. Last, a lot of it is age related. Older VFTs usually product larger traps than younger ones, and VFTs mature fairly slow. If your traps are small despite the above- then give it a few years. If after a few years they are still really small (like, weirdly small)- then please PM me because I want a cutting
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Post by peterhewitt on Jun 11, 2011 12:23:33 GMT
Size of traps is also somewhat seasonally influenced, plants make the largest traps in spring and early summer, towards fall they start going in to a smaller winter mode.
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Post by Hamata95 on Jun 11, 2011 15:45:18 GMT
Ok well right now I'm growing my flytraps in pure long fiber sphagnum moss in net pots.
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Post by Hamata95 on Jun 11, 2011 16:47:51 GMT
Is pet flytrap.com a good place to get supplies?
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Post by coldcoffee on Jun 11, 2011 20:03:37 GMT
I bought a Cephalotus from them, but not supplies. I was happy on the whole- especially with both their selection and their prices. The only thing I would note is that my order took like a week to ship out. I personally did not mind, but some people might. I can say that the ceph was definitely packaged with care. They were also pretty responsive when I emailed them.
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Post by Hamata95 on Jun 11, 2011 20:14:50 GMT
Ok thanks I have looked at them but I have been unsure of there quality of plants since I don't know much about them.
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Post by Alexis on Jun 12, 2011 1:25:24 GMT
Need a lot lot more information about your growing conditions. You could be growing them in a cupboard on top of Everest for all we know.
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Post by Hamata95 on Jun 12, 2011 1:39:59 GMT
I'm growing them in my room I keep it at an average of 60F they are in a south facing window and I'm in western Washington.
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Post by Hamata95 on Jun 14, 2011 3:47:42 GMT
Do VFTs like to be wet all year and is it safe for VFT to be in the 60Fs during the winter?
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Post by ICPS-bob on Jun 14, 2011 4:09:39 GMT
During winter VFTs go dormant. Dormancy is triggered in the fall by reduced daylength. Similarly in spring , increasing daylength starts the growth cycle again. Changes in temperature may also be a factor in inducing dormancy and regrowth. If the plants are kept wet during dormancy, they have a tendency to rot. In western Washington, you could likely keep your VFTs outside all year long. 60F during winter might be a bit warm for continued dormancy. Particularly if they are inside and the photoperiod is artificially lengthened by artifical lighting. Have you read Barry's FAQ on VFTs starting at www.sarracenia.com/faq/faq2000.html
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Post by Hamata95 on Jun 14, 2011 4:11:44 GMT
well I'm growing them in my south facing window sill.
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Post by Aidan on Jun 14, 2011 21:11:08 GMT
Even in a south facing window it may be a struggle to provide sufficient light for Dionaea to grow really well and as Bob points out, a dormant period is required. Without a proper winter dormancy, plants tend to wither away over a period of years. Gradually becoming spindly with (you guessed it) small traps.
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Post by Hamata95 on Jun 14, 2011 22:05:48 GMT
I know I'm just not good at getting the dormancy right, and that's something I need to work on can anybody give me some tips?
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Post by Aidan on Jun 14, 2011 22:21:56 GMT
50F or lower. Keep the plant damp rather than soaking wet. It won't mind freezing now and then but will not survive sustained periods substantially below freezing.
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