zhilin
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Posts: 294
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Post by zhilin on Nov 14, 2009 6:33:56 GMT
Thanks, guys. Your discussions are very helpful. Now my growing conditions are:
Temperature: at night: about 50F; at noon: about 65F. Humidity: at night: near 100%; at noon: about 80%. Live moss is growing on the surface of soil. Bright light place, and can receive about 1 hour direct sunlight at late afternoon.
I hope this helps the plant to pitcher.
Again, thank all of you.
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Post by kpg on Nov 15, 2009 19:25:17 GMT
I just read this post -- N. talangensis is one of my favorites.
In my conditions, it tolerates a daytime RH of 60 - 70%, rising to 90% or more, overnight.
Higher light intensity results in larger pitchers. (Near south facing roof with 60% shade cloth.)
Good growing all, Mac
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zhilin
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touch the sky, reach the star
Posts: 294
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Post by zhilin on Nov 15, 2009 20:32:05 GMT
Hi, everybody,
Again, I have another question: does air circulation affect the pitchering? I put it in a terrarium, which is almost sealed for raising humidity. So, there is definitely no air circulation. Is it OK (let's ignore the fungi issue)?
Thanks, Zhilin
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Post by peterhewitt on Nov 16, 2009 10:55:12 GMT
It wont make a difference in the short term. But Fungus will attack your plant if there is absolutely no circulation. perhaps try a computer fan as many people do. in my terrariums, i just make sure to open them up once a day or so to aerate. and use a fungicide regularly. (every six months or so)
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w03
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What???
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Post by w03 on Nov 17, 2009 0:40:17 GMT
From what I've heard, 100% humidity is a problem even if there was no fungus. Because water is what moves nutrients through a plant's tissues, if there is 100% humidity, the water concentration in the air is almost the same as the concentration in the plant. This makes it harder for the plant to move nutrients, and in turn, makes it grow much slower. Since talangensis already grows at a snail's pace, this is an especially bad effect! (I have tried growing plants in enclosed spaces, and they grew very slowly, even U. livida, which I haven't bothered to acclimate to lower humidity).
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Post by manders on Nov 17, 2009 19:50:49 GMT
From what I've heard, 100% humidity is a problem even if there was no fungus. Because water is what moves nutrients through a plant's tissues, if there is 100% humidity, the water concentration in the air is almost the same as the concentration in the plant. This makes it harder for the plant to move nutrients, and in turn, makes it grow much slower. Since talangensis already grows at a snail's pace, this is an especially bad effect! (I have tried growing plants in enclosed spaces, and they grew very slowly, even U. livida, which I haven't bothered to acclimate to lower humidity). Is that why pond weed grows really slowly?
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w03
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What???
Posts: 106
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Post by w03 on Nov 18, 2009 0:33:47 GMT
Yes. In any case, talangensis is NOT adapted to live in 100% humidity, but pond weed is adapted to live in water.
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Post by Bohdisattva on Nov 18, 2009 4:38:36 GMT
From what I've heard, 100% humidity is a problem even if there was no fungus. Because water is what moves nutrients through a plant's tissues, if there is 100% humidity, the water concentration in the air is almost the same as the concentration in the plant. This makes it harder for the plant to move nutrients, and in turn, makes it grow much slower. Since talangensis already grows at a snail's pace, this is an especially bad effect! (I have tried growing plants in enclosed spaces, and they grew very slowly, even U. livida, which I haven't bothered to acclimate to lower humidity). Hmmmmm . . . very interesting. I guess bicals are pretty strong plants then, considering they are most found in hot, steamy, shady (most of the time) and very humid conditions in the wild, and given these same condtions in terrariums or greenhouses, they grow like gangbusters Good Growing to everyone, B
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zhilin
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Posts: 294
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Post by zhilin on Nov 18, 2009 5:03:04 GMT
From what I've heard, 100% humidity is a problem even if there was no fungus. Because water is what moves nutrients through a plant's tissues, if there is 100% humidity, the water concentration in the air is almost the same as the concentration in the plant. This makes it harder for the plant to move nutrients, and in turn, makes it grow much slower. Since talangensis already grows at a snail's pace, this is an especially bad effect! (I have tried growing plants in enclosed spaces, and they grew very slowly, even U. livida, which I haven't bothered to acclimate to lower humidity). Well, I believe 100% humidity is not good as well. But I think the reason that nutrients (eg. N,P, and K ions) flow through one place to another place is due to the concentration difference of these ions, not the water concentration.
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Post by manders on Nov 18, 2009 12:01:03 GMT
These plants are adapted to 100% humidity at night and ~75% daytime. I agree 100% all the time would probably be a bad idea, but not because any effect of 'water concentration', whatever that is supposed to be.
When growing in sunshine, plants use transpiration from the leaves to prevent leaves from getting too warm and reducing photosynthesis, which they cant do in 100% humidity. Transport of chemicals around the plant tissues doesn't rely on transpiration, as already mentioned above.
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Post by gardenofeden on Nov 18, 2009 13:15:29 GMT
Well, I believe 100% humidity is not good as well. But I think the reason that nutrients (eg. N,P, and K ions) flow through one place to another place is due to the concentration difference of these ions, not the water concentration. plants use transpiration to draw water and nutrients up from roots to leaves, so this may be affected by humidity. Translocation of carbohydrates fom leaves to roots etc is thought to be driven by osmotic pressure (metabolic processes as well)
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Post by manders on Nov 18, 2009 19:56:22 GMT
I agree this the classic example used on vascular plants with organic compounds actively transported around in the phloem and inorganic compounds transported passively around in the xylem. Even then transpiration is not the only cause of water flow, although its typically the highest. However this classical explanation seems to fail when applied to the transport of nutrients around in carnivours plants, especially in explaining transport from nepenthes pitchers to the leaves and elsewhere. If there is a flow of water in any direction you would expect it to be from the plant to the pitcher and not the other way around? Does the pitcher absorb inorganics or convert them to organic molecules and actively transport them? Anyone know? Either way I seriously doubt its controlled by transpiration.
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zhilin
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Post by zhilin on Feb 7, 2010 6:38:46 GMT
After three months, under my modified growing conditions, this plant finally starts to form pitchers. Here are some pictures: A pitcher will open in the near future: Thank all of you for answering my questions.
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Post by unstuckintime on Feb 10, 2010 1:27:33 GMT
zhilin, How often do you water your plant? I water my talangensis every once in a while, a long with my other nepenthes (never letting the soil dry out, that sorta thing), but do you (or anyone else) think it may benefit from a evening splash of water? (Like my heliamphora, simulating an evening rain that would happen as the temperature dropped) The medium is a fairly open mix, (perlite, sand, peat, orchid bark, LFS, stuff like that) with a top dressing of live sphagnum, like yours.
I ask because mine has pitchered only once for me (one lonely pitcher) many many months ago when i first got it.
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zhilin
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touch the sky, reach the star
Posts: 294
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Post by zhilin on Feb 10, 2010 1:35:00 GMT
zhilin, How often do you water your plant? I water my talangensis every once in a while, a long with the others, but do you (or anyone else) think it may benefit from a evening splash of water? (Like my heliamphora, simulating an evening rain that would happen as the temperature dropped) The medium is a fairly open mix, (perlite, sand, peat, orchid bark, LFS, stuff like that) with a top dressing of live sphagnum, like yours. I ask because mine has pitchered only once for me (one lonely pitcher) many many months ago when i first got it. I mist it almost every morning and evening, but I only water it once per week, since the soil is enough web due to the high humidity. I don't know the components of the soil, because I bought it from a CP store with the pot. I live in San Diego, so the night is chilly (around 50F), while daytime is warm (around 65F in winter). It also get late afternoon (4pm) sunshine for one hour.
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