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Post by teinkes on Sept 18, 2009 20:57:47 GMT
Hi there
I grow already 2 years U. alpina and U. reniformis growing still withoud flowers??
The plants are growing in 13cm pots. U alpina grows in sphagnum / peat / sand 1/1/1 and U reniformis in pure living Sphagnum.
Also U prealonga never had flowers some pot size and 2 peat / 1 sand mix.
plants have 20°C day 12/ 15° C nights,
all are growing in half shade... maybe put the plants more in the sun
some suggestions
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Post by Hermopolis on Oct 2, 2009 18:38:55 GMT
Light, light, and lots of light. Utrics love light. At least that has been my observation. Not that I'm a utric expert. I'm admittedly a neophyte when it comes to utrics. I just my first utrics 2 months ago and they are already blooming. ;D
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Post by Dave Evans on Oct 5, 2009 1:24:56 GMT
Change the water table. Utricularia tend to flower as the water table is decreasing, thus allowing more infrared to reach the plant.
Changing the day length could help too.
And maybe they could use some sort of bloom fertilizer, like something designed for epiphytic plants applied at 1/4 strength...
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jimscott
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Posts: 122
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Post by jimscott on Oct 9, 2009 13:47:03 GMT
And I have read that when they reach the limits of their environment, that can also induce flowering.
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Post by unstuckintime on Oct 13, 2009 23:59:32 GMT
And I have read that when they reach the limits of their environment, that can also induce flowering. I second this. In my small pot of sandersonii 'white form' it will only bloom when crowded. After a spell, it stops, at which point i pull it back to a small island in the center, and once it reaches the edges again, up come the blossoms. My U. longifolia, however, has yet to bloom for me in its very crowded container in the years that i have had it. Sometimes you just cant please these guys...
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Post by RL7836 on Dec 10, 2009 22:12:18 GMT
Some suggestions I've read: - allow plant to become potbound (as mentioned) - provide natural food supply (or unnatural as Dave suggests) - provide seasonal time changes (photoperiod) - provide other seasonal changes that the plant may see in its natural environment: ... increase / decrease temperatures ... induce flooding or dry periods - combine several of the above. Example: allow the plant to become potbound and provide a dry, cold 'winter' with reduced photoperiod. My U. longifolia, however, has yet to bloom for me in its very crowded container in the years that i have had it. Sometimes you just cant please these guys... Several people have had success blooming U. longifolia with windowsill growing (cooler temps, drier winter media, seasonal photoperiod)
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w03
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What???
Posts: 106
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Post by w03 on Dec 10, 2009 23:50:12 GMT
My U. livida is completely different from any of your species, but mine only flowers when it cools down a bit. Maybe this could apply to your plants as well?
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Post by wouter1 on Dec 20, 2009 13:39:54 GMT
Dear all,
To get some Utrics in flower for me is very simple. In my greenhouse which is kept frost-free (2 degrees C) I'm keeping U. sandersonii, bisquamata small flower, bisquamata Betties Bay, bisquamata white flower and U. livida.
During early spring I devided each pot of the above species. There were in 8 cm pots and the whole pot was fully grown.
I devided each pot in 4 or 5 seperate plants and put them in 8 cm pots each.
The result were amazing for me. Within one growing season the 8 cm pots were fully grown again and flowering from June til now.
So next spring I'll split them again, especially the bisquamata Betties Bay. I had 9 plants of these and all where flowering very good. These plants are not mine, but from carnivora, my CP-society.
Take care,
Wouter Noordeloos
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Post by gardenofeden on Dec 20, 2009 14:16:55 GMT
Wouter, glad you are enjoying the Utricularia 'Betty's Bay' (note the spelling!) I agree that many smaller terrestrial Utrics thrive on frequent dividing. For reniformis and alpina, first mentioned in this thread, this is not the answer. As others have said, U.reniformis likes to be potbound to flower, and a big pot so that there is a good mass of thick stolons; additionally, a cold winter seems to help down to near zero. U.alpina in my experience is similar, in that you need a good lot of growth, however this species always flowers best for me when kept warmer at about 10C (50F) minimum. So for these two, do not divide if you want flowers.
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taz6122
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Yesterday is History.Tomorrow is a Mystery and Today is a Gift.Thats why we call it the Present.
Posts: 289
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Post by taz6122 on Dec 21, 2009 5:12:05 GMT
Keeping any plant root bound is not healthy. The plant responds with reproduction because it is stressed and thinks death is near. I also think this is the case with decreasing the water table. Proper nutrition is more likely the key.
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Post by gardenofeden on Dec 21, 2009 11:17:18 GMT
Keeping any plant root bound is not healthy. .The plant responds with reproduction because it is stressed and thinks death is near. I also think this is the case with decreasing the water table. yes, stress of various types can induce flowering in some "difficult to flower" species. Health does not come into it, plants get naturally stressed in the wild and this can naturally induce flowering, in many cases we are trying to replicate these natural triggers.
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Post by ICPS-bob on Dec 27, 2009 1:01:18 GMT
I grow all of my Utricularia, including U. reniformis (large leaf), U. longifolia, and U. nelumbifolia, in my unheated greenhouse. I think the key to flowering is short day length and cool winter temperatures (mine gets to near freezing). They flower every summer and stay in flower for months.
Interestingly, I have had my U. reniformis (small leaf -- 'Infant Terrible') for 5 years in various pots ranging from pure perlite, pure sand, peat and sand, all peat, live sphagnum -- in both well-drained and undrained flooded pots -- and it has never flowered.
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Post by kulamauiman on Dec 28, 2009 19:35:49 GMT
Flowering right now in my unheated greenhouse. Summer temps were in the 80's with 50-60 F overnight. Right now 60-70 days with mid 40's over night. Last year i got one to flower indoors. Went from cool dry room to 90F tank. i think i have not been able to get it out of that tank. i still find it coming up in pots.
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Post by unstuckintime on Jan 2, 2010 19:23:47 GMT
I recently (as in, a few months ago max) upped the wattage in my terrarium, and then repotted my very pot-bound U. longifolia. It was in pure LFS (but was mostly "root" at the point of repotting), I took away more than half of it, keeping what seemed to be the "center" of the plant, and put it in the same sized pot (roughly five inches across) but in a more Nepenthes-like mix of peat, LFS, perlite, orchid bark, hort sand and some lava rock.
Point is, either the repotting or the increased wattage or both has induced a flower, a first for this plant in my experience.
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Post by sarracenialover on Jan 19, 2010 1:38:45 GMT
I thought that utrics usually flower after a water level drop.
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