I'm truly beginning to think that the red form offered by Wistuba is an extreme highland variety. It's extremely slow growing compared to the other species (at least in my conditions)
Glad to hear you're also growing pure H. neblinae as well! Time will tell the needs of this plant, with both of us growing it. I do know that Francois (Sockhom) has also reported that H. neblinae and H. elongata are extremely slow for him as well.
Sorry... all my images were located at geocities.com which has recently been shut down. So unfortunately all of my picture postings for the last 5+ years will no longer work as posted.
Here are the missing pictures:
I do not use a terrarium or tank really, it is just a plant "rack" that has the back and sides enclosed with aluminum foil foam panels. The front is covered with a clear plastic "drop cloth" for easy access.
Humidity is provided by an ultrasonic humidifier which runs whenever the light is on.
Your plants are great as usual. Congrats. You're going to have a tremendous family within a couple of years!
This is an advantage to not growing your plants in a tank like I do. You can, thus, easily avoid overheating in summer. Maybe that's why, species like elongata, hispida and neblinae are so hard for me: my temperatures are intermediate in summer and those three taxa do not cope with high temps as far as I am concerned.
I have a couple of questions, please. Where exactly is located your fogger? Is it near the aeration device/ ventilation?
I read that you gave 18 hours light day in summer. That sounded very much for me but, obviously, your plants love it. I only give them 13 hours all year long. Do you think giving more light, like you do, can, in a way, be an equivalent to the intense light that these wonderful plants experience in the tepuys?
I want to make a " Terrarium" for heli's and use an ultramembrane fogger too, problem yet is to find a hygroswitch with a sensor so you can put the switch outsite because of the hight tension (in Holland 230 volt)
The output of the humidifier is adjacent to a fan. The two outputs mix immediately upon entry into the rack. It has been my experience that Heliamphora do not like constant fog or constant misting, especially when young. So I try to get the fog well blended into the airflow as soon as possible. This also lowers the incoming air temperature due to the evaporation of the mist.
Mine get 18 hours during the summer but down to 12 or 14 in the winter. I try to follow the natural transition of the seasons. I get abundant flowering at each change of season so I take that as a sign of approval from the plants.
As far as length being a substitute for intensity, I don't know. I try to provide both. IMHO the vertical form of Heliamphora is an indicator of light intensity. When the sun is at its highest and most intense, the amount of exposed surface area of the heli is at its lowest. Likewise with the sun at its lowest the exposed surface area of the heli is at its highest. With this logic in mind, length of photoperiod would be a poor replacement for intensity. Based up this structural engineering they are by design constructed for a light intense environment (IMHO). We can see this same design philosophy used by the highland columnar cacti of South America
(spoken like a true mechanical engineer LOL )
I am sure there is a point of diminishing returns, but I have always used the 18/6 summer cycle and see no need to change.
But it goes without saying, what works well for one may not work well for another. Many interactive variables come into play.