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Post by Hikenyura on Aug 28, 2007 1:07:51 GMT
I got spider mites all over all of my plants and have been trying to stop it. I'm wondering how bad spider mites are. I always see webs all over my cps. I have been aplying neem oil fungicide to it but the infestation seems to always get bigger.
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Post by Aidan on Aug 28, 2007 1:52:33 GMT
Given the chance, spider-mites will do a great deal of damage. Use an acaricide or an insecticide with a vegetable oil included as part of the formulation.
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Post by Hikenyura on Sept 2, 2007 0:15:09 GMT
The spider mites arnt going but i just want to know, are spider mites visible because i cant see anything, only very thin webs.
i also dont see any damage to my plants at all. are spiders just trying to go across my plant?(i have notcied a spider that was in my vft's trap)
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Post by Aidan on Sept 2, 2007 0:44:11 GMT
It rather depends how good your eyesight is. Spider-mites are tiny and usually appear as barely visible, slowly moving dots. Way smaller than the period at the end of this sentence.
Try looking through a magnifying glass.
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Post by Not a Number on Sept 2, 2007 10:57:43 GMT
10x magnification is recommended to ID these pests. The standard procedure is to place a sheet of clean white paper under a leaf and tap the leaf sharply then look for tiny moving dots on the paper. These pests prefer the undersides of leaves. Many people completely immerse their potted Drosera and Dionaea (pot and all) in CP safe water for 2 or 3 days. This drowns most common pests, perhaps even the eggs and does little harm to the plants. This technique can work with Sarracenia but is a bit impractical for obvious reasons. Sarracenia psittacina enjoys being immersed. See also: www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7405.html
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Post by Deleted on Sept 26, 2007 20:12:15 GMT
well you can sometimes tell if you have spider mites or not by wether or not you have tons of webs or just a few...if its just a few single webs then you probally dont if there are hundreds of webs you might .......also when spiders make their webs they have a center/focul (not sure if i spelt that right) point most of the time...however spider mites dont have these center points in their webs....... also spider mites tend to be red and you can usually see them on the underside of plant leaves.....you may want to google image them so you can get a better idea of what spider mites are.... images.google.com/images?sourceid=navclient&ie=UTF-8&rls=GGLG,GGLG:2005-31,GGLG:en&q=spider+mites&um=1&sa=N&tab=wi
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Post by waldobrits on Oct 18, 2007 12:31:29 GMT
Yes Spider mites...Giving them time will kill your plants. they are very small... they only start forming ''webs'' once the coliny's becomes big enough. They feed an the plant cells and killing them as far as they go. In general they are hard to get rid off...due to the ease of spreading to other garden plants and speed of reproduction, so make sure you spray all your other house plants where your grow Cp's. You can spot S-mites or that you have them is that you will see brown spots under your Cp leaves if you feel the leave it will have a grainy feel. Make sure to spray you infected are in a week or so because thats the time most of the eggs will be hatching. If you have plants with larger leaves you can use some cotton wool to clean most of them off but you will have to get rid of them as asap!
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Post by Hikenyura on Oct 28, 2007 20:47:11 GMT
I just got a big infestation again on my nepenthes and it seems like they can make webs every few hours. I tried all my insecticides but they didn't work, should i dump all my nepenthes in water to kill them or use wet cotton
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Post by Aidan on Oct 28, 2007 21:01:03 GMT
Mites are not insects... which goes some way to explaining why insecticides don't work. Use an acaricide or an insecticide with a vegetable oil included as part of the formulation.
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Post by Not a Number on Oct 29, 2007 2:37:15 GMT
From: www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7405.htmlChemicals
Spider mites frequently become a problem after the application of insecticides. Such outbreaks are commonly a result of the insecticide killing off the natural enemies of the mites, but also occur when certain insecticides stimulate mite reproduction. For example, spider mites exposed to carbaryl (Sevin) in the laboratory have been shown to reproduce faster than untreated populations. Carbaryl, some organophosphates, and some pyrethroids apparently also favor spider mites by increasing the level of nitrogen in leaves. Insecticides applied during hot weather usually appear to have the greatest effect on mites, causing dramatic outbreaks within a few days.
If a treatment for mites is necessary, use selective materials, preferably insecticidal soap or insecticidal oil. Petroleum-based horticultural oils or neem oils are both acceptable. Do not use soaps or oils on water-stressed plants or when temperatures exceed 90°F. These materials may be phytotoxic to some plants, so check labels and/or test them out on a portion of the foliage several days before applying a full treatment. Oils and soaps must contact mites to kill them so excellent coverage, especially on the undersides of leaves, is essential and repeat applications may be required. Sulfur dust or spray can be used on some vegetables, but will burn cucurbits. Do not use sulfur dust if temperatures exceed 90°F and do not apply sulfur within 30 days of an oil spray. Sulfur dusts are skin irritants and eye and respiratory hazards. Always wear appropriate protective clothing.
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Post by Aidan on Oct 29, 2007 4:49:02 GMT
Soap is not a good idea. I have seen the results of a grower treating an entire collection with soap and the outcome was disastrous.
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Post by Not a Number on Oct 29, 2007 11:31:36 GMT
Yes, soaps and petroleum based oils should be avoided in use with CPs. Neem oil can be used with great success but the plants need complete coverage - particularly the undersides of leaves. Spider mites spend most of the time on the undersides. And all your plants should be sprayed. However use extreme caution on Drosera which can react adversely to most sprays of any sort.
I wouldn't recommend immersion (drowning) with Nepenthes as they in general do not appreciate waterlogged conditions.
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Post by Hikenyura on Oct 30, 2007 3:19:37 GMT
For some crazy reason, i did almost nothing to my nepenthes yesterday and i say no webs at all. Anyways today i used a wet paper towel and cleaned the undersides of the leaves. Will that make any great difference? Also i have tried neem oil but the affects arnt too great for me, probably because im too lazy to give full plant coverage. Can anyone give me a brand name that is great?
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Post by Not a Number on Oct 30, 2007 16:53:35 GMT
Spider mites sometimes leave on their own, which probably means they migrated to another of your plants. Or they could have been between generations. They are so tiny you need magnification to spot and identify them.
I don't know if it is great but I've used Schultz's Garden Safe 3 in 1 Insecticide, Fungicide and Miticide. You can find it off the shelf almost anywhere that sells garden products. A hydroponics store will have plenty of different brands, mostly concentrates.
Make sure to cover the entire plant with spray. Do not inhale the spray - a mask or respirator is strongly recommended as well as gloves.
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Post by BarryRice on Aug 6, 2008 16:10:00 GMT
Hey, "Not a number",
Any luck with your spider mites? I just noticed this morning, what I think are spider mites on one of my Stylidium adnatum pots. I've got to look at them tonight under my microscope to be sure.
Spider mites in terraria are something I'm simply not sure how to deal with. Some web searches indicate that my insecticide of choice, Imidacloprid, can actually enhance egg production in spider mites!
B
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