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Post by david052856 on Jun 28, 2009 21:45:07 GMT
I had a problem that I was wanting to see if you could help me with. I just recently purchased Drosera Regia from a nursery. I am having the following problem with all the plants. The leaves are starting to turn black, always starting at the tip then following to the crown. Any new fiddle heads turn black and the blackness continues to the crown.
I have no idea what causes these plants to do this. I have tried several years back and had the same problem. This is how I am growing them. First I had them outside in East Texas. The temp was getting too high, in the lower 90's and I have since moved them inside. I have them under a full spectrum grow light, with the water tray system of watering. It is in the mid 70's in my room. I have the light about 5 feet above them. Since I have moved them back inside two days ago the plants have started to produce dew, but the fiddle heads are still turning black and heading toward the crown. I try to keep the plants wet, and keep about an inch or two of water in the tray so that they do not dry out. I have no idea what is wrong with the plants. The fiddle heads started turning black once I moved them inside. Can you please help me with this problem. any suggestions that you could help me to save my plants. I would greatly appreciate it.
Could this be a fungus?
Any suggestions would be well apprieciated. David
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jimscott
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Tropical Fish Enthusiast
Posts: 122
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Post by jimscott on Jun 28, 2009 22:39:53 GMT
It could be a combination of reasons. I do know that this species wants the day/night temperature differential. They also suffer in the heat. They also react and recover from a change in conditions. This may not be the best plant to cultivate because when inside it will be a challenge to have the temperature differential. but if outside, they will struggle with Texas heat. I believe they need well-drained media and not be kept in too much water.
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Post by unstuckintime on Jul 6, 2009 0:12:55 GMT
As i understand it, D. Regia is a difficult species to grow, for it is slow growing and does not take well to mistakes. And, as i understand it, these guys grow more-or-less (probably less) like Heliamphora, that is to say, lots of light, but still relatively cool, and with a nice temperature drop at night. So, a strict highland Nepenthes, i suppose. About water or soil requirements, i do not know, i have read articles about this species and once i read what i have just restated, i knew it wasn't for me and stopped, hahaha.
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sundewman
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Happy Growing!
Posts: 235
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Post by sundewman on Jul 15, 2009 19:42:30 GMT
Hey David, I have had the same problem when it warmed up here in Iowa. During the cooler winter, I was able to grow this plant up in my room. Now that it is summer here, it quickly began to produce smaller and smaller leaves that quickly blackened. Now it is just a dormant bud in my pot. The smaller plant beside it is still kicking after I moved the pot to my cooler basement. However, this plant grew so incredibly fast for me, when I fed it, that root segments grew well over 5 inches in a period of 4 months. So I took plenty of root cutting material that is now starting to strike!
So, don't give up! If nothing else, you can take a few root cuttings (placing them on sphagnum in a sealed bag under lights, or in water for a few weeks. Once they bud, you'll have to find a cooler location, or those will blacken (and be permanently dead) if they're left in higher temps for an extended period of time.
Hope you have better luck this time!
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fredg
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Post by fredg on Jul 15, 2009 20:09:57 GMT
That must be a very powerful light to be able to set it 5ft from the plants.
That doesn't seem right to me......
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Post by kulamauiman on Jul 15, 2009 20:53:50 GMT
Hey David, I have had the same problem when it warmed up here in Iowa. During the cooler winter, I was able to grow this plant up in my room. Now that it is summer here, it quickly began to produce smaller and smaller leaves that quickly blackened. Now it is just a dormant bud in my pot. The smaller plant beside it is still kicking after I moved the pot to my cooler basement. How hot is hot? I really don't have a good idea. To me Hot is anything above 80F. Cold is below 50F. I never really see temps into the 90's at my home. And never experienced 100+F temps until I went to Florida. I still have mine outside, in the lexan greenhouse. Daily temps up into the 80's Over night down to the 50's. I have opened the door to allow more air circulation (and the drosophila that I am attracting, lazy man food supply ). I have potted them in white pots, with a well drained mix including some live Sphagnum. I am beginning to think that the live Sphagnum acts as a evaporative cooler for many of my plants. Mach Fukada
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Post by kitkor on Jul 16, 2009 12:14:24 GMT
It's not all that difficult to grow. I keep mine on a south-facing windowsill in a pot with live sphagnum. There's no real temperature differential (day/night) to speak of; if I recall correctly, the temperature day/night cycle is really only necessary if you want it to flower. What I have noticed is that this species is a very heavy feeder. Since mine's inside, I have to apply a blood worm paste to the leaves quite frequently or it won't put out new growth. A browning of the leaves at the tips often indicates a nitrogen deficiency. Have you been feeding it? When's the last time it had a good meal?
Also, in my experience, this species doesn't really like standing water. I have a tray underneath mine, but the pot is a foot tall and I don't let the water collect.
Good luck.
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fredg
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Posts: 367
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Post by fredg on Jul 16, 2009 13:52:18 GMT
I've tried to keep quiet but............... D regia will stand in water..... mine have for 20 years for 3 seasons of the year. I have never had to feed them, they may be in a greenhouse but the little that they do manage to catch in the case wouldn't amount to a gnat's cod ( pun intended). They are very easy plants to grow, the problem is that people buy the plant and then try to provide suitable conditions. It should be the other way around, buy the plant that fits your conditions. Steps back down from soapbox
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Post by elgecko on Jul 16, 2009 15:55:37 GMT
Just an observation I've noticed with newly acquired D. regias, at least what 4 of them have done for me.
I got my plants, repotted them and they started to grow great for a few weeks. Then the leaves started to blacken and get smaller like you stated. The plant then died back to the soil, so I thought....... After several weeks they did start to grow again. Never had any problems after that. They must die back after the shipping shock.
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fredg
Full Member
Posts: 367
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Post by fredg on Jul 16, 2009 17:00:00 GMT
My D. regia do die back annually in autumn (fall). They then regrow from the crowns in spring. It's not unusual to see the occasional crown die back in summer. Temperature I haven't mentioned so far but it can exceed 100F in the greenhouse during bright sunlight, dropping back to the low 60sF at night. I am still concerned about the light being 5ft from the plant.
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Post by Brian Barnes on Jul 16, 2009 17:19:23 GMT
And...... Fred's "Kings", they are large enough to strap around your arm! ;D Guys, Living in tropical Fl., I've learned to grow my D. regia like I have to grow all of my cooler temperature loving plants such as S. African Drosera and pickier Mexi-Pings... In Summer, we have absolutely no cool-down at night to really mention. Average temps are 98F day and 80F night (and hotter in my greenhouse). Combined with constant 100% humidity around the clock 24/7, it's a total paradise for lowland Nepenthes, but havoc for temperamental Drosera and Dionaea! All D. regia and other species such as D. admirablis, D. aliciae, D. hilaris, and the Brazilian species come in under lights for the Summer. Everyone lives in harmony with all of the Heliamphora in the grow chambers under 100W growlux bulbs with 81F days and 73F nights. Though I do have two forms of D. regia that I keep outside year-round, the leaves do begin getting smaller when temps hit over 85F. At that time, they get put under heavy shade and eventually go dormant through Summer. At this time, I do maintain dampness in the lower depths of the pot and never over-water (much like i do to my pygmy Drosera). At the first sign of cooler weather, they are returned to full sun and heavy watering, where they grow very quickly. However, the plants that get "rescued" to the cool confines of the grow chambers always look better and are more robust than the others. I also keep all of my various Dionaea forms the same as above through Summer, or else they would rot. My Winter, (if you'd dare call it that) begins in November. That's when outdoor temps are prime for my growing conditions. (78-80F day, 50-55F night)... Then...back into the greenhouse everything goes, having survived the harsh tropical Summer inside the cool air-conditioned chambers. Happy Growing, Brian.
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